Musée archéologique Grenoble Saint-Laurent

The Musée archéologique Grenoble Saint-Laurent stands on Place Saint-Laurent, in one of the oldest quarters of Grenoble, on the right bank of the river Isère at the foot of the Bastille hill. Entry is free, and the museum is housed in and under the old church of Saint-Laurent.

The Quartier Saint-Laurent is the oldest district of the city on the right bank, with steep lanes, tall narrow houses and a long history. The church of Saint-Laurent was built in the Middle Ages on the site of an earlier burial ground, and in the twentieth century excavations beneath and around it revealed a great deal about the early history of Grenoble. The digs, which went on for years, uncovered remains of a cemetery of the late Roman period and a crypt, from the early medieval period, that is among the oldest surviving religious structures in France. The crypt, often dated to about the sixth century, is a low vaulted space with columns and carved details, and it was part of a burial church built over the graves of important people. The museum presents these discoveries in the old church and the crypt, so you move through the layers of the site as you go down.

The archaeological material includes objects found in the excavations, such as tombs, grave goods, stone carvings and everyday items, and it tells the story of how the early Christian community in Grenoble developed from late antiquity into the Middle Ages. The setting makes the visit unusual, as the walls and floors themselves are the exhibits, and the cool, dim light in the crypt gives it an atmosphere that a conventional gallery cannot offer. Information panels explain the successive phases of building and burial.

The museum is open on set days and hours, with different times in different seasons, and it is wise to check the opening times before going, especially in spring and autumn. Entrance is free, and a visit takes about an hour. The surroundings are pleasant, with a small square and cafés, and a walk uphill toward the Bastille offers wide views over the city and the Alps. The cable cars that rise to the fortress start from the quay nearby.

Other museums within reach include the Musée de Grenoble, with its fine collection of art, and the Musée de l'Imprimerie. The Place Grenette and the Place Saint-André are in the centre of town. The museum suits visitors interested in early history, archaeology and old churches, and those who like quiet places that are off the main tourist trail.