Musée Départemental Breton

The Musée départemental breton in Quimper occupies the old palace of the bishops of Cornouaille, a handsome building in pale stone that stands right beside the Cathédrale Saint-Corentin. The palace dates from the late Middle Ages and was rebuilt in the sixteenth century, and it served as the home of the bishops until the Revolution. Today the old rooms hold one of the best regional museums in Brittany, and the building, with its staircases, courtyards and carved details, is part of the pleasure of the visit.

The museum was founded in the nineteenth century by a local archaeological society, making it among the earliest regional museums in France, and its aim was to preserve the history, craft and art of the Finistère. Its collections are arranged by theme and chronology. Archaeological rooms show prehistoric tools and Bronze Age objects, as well as remains from the Gallo-Roman period, when the area was inhabited by the Osismii, a Gaulish tribe. Later galleries hold medieval sculpture, fragments of stained glass and religious art, giving a picture of Breton faith and craftsmanship.

The upper floors are devoted to everyday life and tradition. Visitors can see the costumes of the Finistère, including the tall lace headdresses, called coiffes, that varied from village to village and told much about the wearer's origin and status. There are also carved furniture pieces, notably the box beds, enclosed wooden beds that were once found in every Breton farmhouse, together with chests, cupboards and wood sculpture. The museum also presents paintings and prints of Breton subjects, which show how artists and travellers from the nineteenth and twentieth centuries saw the region.

A large part of the collection is dedicated to the famous Quimper pottery, with several hundred pieces tracing the production from early tableware to modern designs. The museum is therefore a good complement to a visit to the Quimper factory, and the two together give a rounded view of the craft. Temporary exhibitions focus on Breton art and culture, and the museum offers guided tours and workshops.

The cathedral next door is itself worth a visit. Its twin spires were added in the nineteenth century, and a statue of King Gradlon, a legendary Breton ruler, stands between them. Inside, the nave bends slightly, a quirk of its medieval construction. The Place de la Cathédrale, the Quartier de la Cornouaille and the Musée de la Faïence are all within easy walking distance.

Allow about an hour and a half. It suits families, culture lovers and anyone curious about Breton identity. Check opening days and times before you go, since they change with the season.