Quimper Ceramics (Faïencerie)

Quimper faience is the colourful hand-painted earthenware that has become a symbol of Brittany, and the place to understand it is the Locmaria quarter of Quimper, on the banks of the Odet, where the workshops have operated for more than three centuries. The Henriot faïencerie traces its origins to 1690, when the potter Jean-Baptiste Bousquet set up a workshop here, and the company, one of the oldest still active in France, is still turning out pieces by hand. The quarter has a much older history, since a priory was founded here in the Middle Ages, and the Romanesque church of Notre-Dame de Locmaria stands next to the factory buildings.

The typical Quimper style comes from the painters. Each piece is shaped, fired, glazed and then decorated freehand, with no machine printing, in bright blues, yellows, reds and greens. The best-known motif is a Breton man or woman in traditional costume, often drawn with a few quick lines and a little smile, but there are also flowers, birds, fishing scenes and geometric borders, which have been revived over the years in new designs. On a visit to the workshop, you can see how the clay is formed, how the decorators work with fine brushes, and how the finished pieces come out of the kiln, so the activity is part of the attraction, not just the display.

The museum, the Musée de la Faïence, is housed on the site, on rue Jean-Baptiste Bousquet, and it tells the story of Quimper ceramics over three centuries. Its rooms show pieces from different periods, from early tableware with simple floral borders to sets made for particular occasions, and the displays make clear how styles changed, how everyday scenes and religious subjects were painted, and how modern artists reinterpreted the tradition. A shop on the premises sells new work, from small items to full dinner services, and it is a good place to find a gift that is truly local.

Locmaria sits a short walk from the centre of Quimper, where the Cathédrale Saint-Corentin, the Place de la Cathédrale and the Musée Départemental Breton show other sides of the city. The quay along the Odet is a pleasant stroll between the two areas, and the Quartier de la Cornouaille preserves the old Breton name of the region.

The visit suits craft lovers, families and anyone who wants to bring home something made with skill. Allow about an hour or two, and check the current times for tours of the workshop before you set out.