Saint-Corneille Crypt

Beneath the medieval upper town of Provins lies a second town, a labyrinth of galleries, halls and passages carved into the chalk and clay of the hill. These underground spaces are among the most mysterious features of a place that is already listed by UNESCO for its medieval architecture and its history as a trading centre of the Champagne fairs, and visits take place only with a guide because the network is large and complex. The galleries can be explored in short guided tours, which allow visitors to see the surviving spaces safely and to understand their history.

The origin of the galleries is practical. In the Middle Ages, Provins was a major producer of woollen cloth, and the cloth makers needed fuller's earth, a type of clay used to clean and thicken the wool. The clay was found in layers beneath the town and was extracted by digging galleries, and over the centuries, miners and quarrymen excavated a large network of tunnels and chambers. The work stopped when the cloth industry declined, but the empty spaces remained. Many of them lie under the houses and streets of the upper town, and some connect to cellars of old buildings, so that they were put to many uses.

Over time, people used the galleries for storage, particularly of goods during the fairs, when merchants from across Europe brought cloth, spices, furs and wine to Provins. In times of danger, the galleries offered hiding places for residents. Some chambers may have been used for worship or by secret societies, and local tradition associates parts of the network with the Freemasons, who left symbols on the walls, though the evidence is a mixture of fact and legend. Graffiti and carvings left by visitors over centuries can be seen on the walls.

A tour of the galleries is an experience of atmosphere. The temperature underground stays around thirteen degrees all year, so a warm layer is useful even in summer, and the light is dim. Guides explain the techniques of extraction, the history of the cloth trade and the uses of the chambers, and they point out the details that visitors would otherwise miss. Groups are limited in size, so booking in advance, particularly in high season, is advisable, and tours are offered in French and sometimes in English. Prices for the guided tours are modest, and combined passes that include other sites in Provins may be available.

Above ground, Provins offers the Tour de César, the ramparts, the Grange-aux-Dîmes and the collegiate church of Saint-Quiriace, as well as shows and a medieval festival. The Maison des Templiers and other historic houses add to the sense of a town that has hardly changed since the Middle Ages. The underground tour suits families with older children, history lovers and anyone who enjoys the unusual, and it takes about an hour. The galleries are not suited to people with limited mobility, because of steps and uneven floors. Opening times vary by season, with more frequent tours at weekends and during school holidays.