Tour des Voleurs (Thieves' Tower)

The Tour des Voleurs, the Thieves' Tower, is one of the sights that visitors to Riquewihr remember longest. It stands in the old town of this Alsatian wine village, part of the defensive walls and one of the most solid of its towers, and its name explains its later use: it served as a prison, where accused thieves and other offenders were held and questioned. Behind its thick stone walls, the tower contains a series of small chambers, steep staircases and a cellar, and a visit is a vivid reminder of the realities of justice in the Middle Ages and the early modern period.

The tower formed part of the fortifications of Riquewihr, which were built from the thirteenth century onwards and later strengthened by the counts of Württemberg, the lords of the village. As with many towers in walled towns, it was designed to be robust, with narrow openings and heavy masonry, and it was incorporated into the line of the walls near the main gate. Over time, it was adapted for use as a prison, and its dark cells and vaulted rooms were used to hold prisoners. In the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, the tower was the place where suspects were interrogated, and one of the rooms holds a collection of instruments of punishment and torture, including the equipment used for judicial questioning, which shows how the law was enforced in a period when confessions were extracted by force.

The museum in the tower is run by the local historical society and is presented with a low-key approach that allows the objects and the building to speak for themselves. A short tour takes visitors through the cells and the upper rooms, with explanations of how the tower was used. Next to it, a restored winegrower's house, the Maison du Vigneron, shows how the village's wine growers lived, with its kitchen, wine press, cellar and tools, and it gives a picture of the prosperity that wine brought to Riquewihr. The two sites together offer a view of both the harsh and the comfortable sides of life in the village. A combined ticket with the nearby Dolder Museum, in the old gate tower, is available.

Outside, the village around the tower is a delight. The Rue des Marchands, with its half-timbered houses and carved doorways, leads past the Maison du Vin, where wines can be tasted, and the Remparts de Riquewihr can be explored on foot. The Église Saint-Nicolas and the narrow lanes with wrought-iron signs add to the charm, and the surrounding vineyards, which produce Riesling and Gewurztraminer among others, offer walks along the Route des Vins d'Alsace. The village is very popular, particularly in summer and at Christmas, so mornings are quieter.

The tower suits families with older children, history enthusiasts and anyone who likes to see the less polished side of a village's past. Allow about thirty minutes. Opening hours and admission fees vary through the year, with the site open daily in the main season, and special evening tours take place during the Night of the Museums, so check locally. Be aware that the staircases are steep and narrow, which may be difficult for those with limited mobility.