Picnicking the Parisian Way
A picnic is one of the cheapest and most relaxed ways to spend an afternoon or evening in Paris. From late spring to early autumn, office workers eat lunch on park benches, friends gather on riverbanks after work, and families spread blankets on any lawn where sitting is allowed. All you need is a bakery, a cheese shop, a market or supermarket, and a little knowledge of which green spaces actually let you sit on the grass.
That last point matters. Many Paris parks are formal gardens where lawns are decorative and marked pelouse interdite (keep off the grass), while others are open for lounging. Rules can also change with the seasons: some lawns are roped off for rest and reseeding. Always follow the signs at the entrance.
The Best Parks for a Picnic
Parc des Buttes-Chaumont (19th arrondissement) is the favourite of many locals. Its large sloping lawns, lake and the small Temple de la Sibylle on a rocky outcrop make it feel far from the city. It is reached from the Buttes Chaumont or Botzaris metro stations on line 7bis, and it gets busy on sunny weekends, so arrive early for shade.
Champ de Mars (7th) offers the classic view of the Eiffel Tower. It is crowded in summer, and the area has had restrictions on drinking alcohol in the late afternoon and evening, so check the current rules if you plan a sunset picnic with wine.
Square du Vert-Galant (1st) sits at the western tip of the Île de la Cité, below the Pont Neuf. It is small, with a willow tree and water on three sides, and it is a good spot for a simple lunch by the Seine.
Parc Monceau (8th) is an elegant, quieter park with open lawns, follies and a colonnade beside an oval pond. It is popular with local families and joggers.
Jardin du Luxembourg (6th) is famous, but most of its lawns are off-limits; sitting on the grass is limited to designated areas. Instead, pick up one of the green metal chairs around the central pond and eat on your lap.
Parc de la Villette (19th) has wide lawns that are used for sunbathing and picnics, and in summer it hosts an open-air cinema on the main lawn.
Bois de Vincennes and Bois de Boulogne, the two large woods on the city's eastern and western edges, have plenty of space by their lakes if central parks are full.
Riverbanks and Canals
The banks of the Canal Saint-Martin in the 10th fill up on warm evenings, especially near the iron footbridges. The quays of the Seine, including the pedestrianised stretches on both banks and the area around the Île Saint-Louis, are also popular for evening picnics. Sit away from the water's edge, and take everything with you when you leave.
Where to Shop
Buy bread at a local boulangerie; a baguette tradition is the better choice. Then add cheese from a fromagerie, charcuterie, fruit and a dessert from a pâtisserie. Good market streets for picnic shopping include Rue Cler (7th), close to the Champ de Mars, Rue Montorgueil (2nd) and Rue Mouffetard (5th). The Marché d'Aligre in the 12th is open most mornings except Monday and is known for good-value produce. Supermarket chains such as Monoprix and Franprix are everywhere for drinks, napkins and anything you forgot. Ask the cheesemonger to cut cheese in small portions and the shop to slice charcuterie for you, since you probably won't have a knife.
Picnic Etiquette and Rules
- Opening hours: most parks open in the morning and close around dusk, with exact times posted at the gates. Guards blow whistles at closing time.
- Alcohol: rules differ between city parks, state-run gardens and certain areas covered by police orders. Some parks ban alcohol entirely; check signs, drink discreetly where it is tolerated, and avoid glass if you can.
- Litter: use the bins or take rubbish home. Many parks have separate bins for recycling.
- Noise: keep music low or use headphones. Barbecues and open flames are not allowed in city parks.
- Toilets: most larger parks have public toilets, but queues can be long in summer.
When to Go
The picnic season runs roughly from May to September, with long daylight in June and July. Weekday lunchtimes and early evenings are pleasant and less crowded than weekend afternoons. In spring and autumn, bring a jacket, as evenings cool quickly. In winter, picnics are rare, and many lawns are closed to let the grass recover, so a bench in a sunny square is the best you will find.
A Simple Picnic Checklist
Pack a blanket or large scarf, a reusable bag for rubbish, a corkscrew if you bring wine, a small knife if you have one, napkins and a bottle of water. A light rain jacket is useful, as summer showers can arrive quickly. With those basics, almost any open lawn in the city can become a good lunch spot.
