Basilique Saint-Sernin

The Basilique Saint-Sernin in Toulouse is one of the great Romanesque churches of Europe and the largest of its kind that survives in France. It is dedicated to Saint Sernin, the local form of Saturnin, the first bishop of Toulouse, who according to tradition was martyred in the middle of the third century by being tied to a bull and dragged through the streets. A church was raised over his tomb, and the present basilica, begun around 1080, grew to hold the crowds of pilgrims who came to venerate the relics of the saint and of many others. Construction continued into the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, and UNESCO included it in 1998 among the Routes of Santiago de Compostela, since Toulouse was a major stage on the way to Spain.

The exterior is built almost entirely of warm red brick with stone detailing, which gives the whole building the glow that is typical of Toulouse. The most striking feature is the octagonal bell tower, rising in five tiers of arched windows, each stage lighter than the one below, to a height of about 65 metres, and it is the landmark of the quarter. The portals include the Porte Miègeville, on the south side, with Romanesque sculpture, and the Porte des Comtes, and the apse is a harmonious cluster of chapels stepping up toward the tower.

Inside, the church follows the pilgrimage plan, with a very long nave of five aisles, a wide transept and a choir surrounded by an ambulatory with radiating chapels, an arrangement that allowed pilgrims to walk around the shrine without disturbing services. The nave rises to about 21 metres, covered by a barrel vault, and the general impression is of strength and calm. Medieval wall paintings survive in places, and the church contains a large collection of relics, kept in reliquaries in the crypts, which can be visited separately. The treasures include a reliquary of the True Cross. A contemporary rose window and the great organ, which dates from the nineteenth century, add other periods to the building.

The nave is open most of the day, though entry may be restricted during services, and the crypt and ambulatory have separate hours and charge a fee. A visit takes one to one and a half hours. The church is a place of worship, so keep quiet and dress respectfully.

It suits lovers of Romanesque architecture, pilgrims and anyone visiting Toulouse. It lies in the northern part of the old centre, a short walk from the Place du Capitole and the Musée des Augustins, and the Basilique Notre-Dame du Taur stands on the same street.