Cathédrale Notre-Dame du Puy

The Cathédrale Notre-Dame du Puy crowns the old town of Le Puy-en-Velay, set on the slopes of Mont Anis among the volcanic hills of the Velay. A long staircase climbs from the streets below to its porch, and the building seems to grow out of the hill, with its roofs and domes stepping up above the houses. The cathedral is both a masterpiece of Romanesque architecture and the starting point of a great pilgrim route, and since 1998 it has been included in the UNESCO World Heritage listing for the Routes of Santiago de Compostela in France.

Pilgrimage is the key to its story. A shrine to the Virgin has stood on this hill since early Christian times, and from the Middle Ages the cathedral became a major place of pilgrimage in its own right. It is also where the Via Podiensis, the Chemin du Puy, begins: the road that leads across France toward Spain and the shrine of Saint James at Santiago de Compostela. Pilgrims still gather here for a blessing before setting out, and walkers with scallop shells on their packs are a regular sight in the streets.

The present building was mostly raised in the twelfth century and later extended to make room for the crowds. The most unusual element is the facade, which is made of bands of pale sandstone and dark volcanic stone laid in patterns, with mosaics and geometric decoration that show the influence of Spain and the Mediterranean world. Inside, the nave is covered by a line of domes in a style that belongs more to the south-west of France than to the north. Painted decoration survives in places, and a Black Madonna, a replica of an older statue that was destroyed during the Revolution, stands over the altar. A cloister beside the church has Romanesque carving worth a separate look, and a stone known as the Pierre des Fièvres was long associated with miraculous healing.

The town offers a few other landmarks that go well with the visit. The Chapelle Saint-Michel d'Aiguilhe, perched on a needle of volcanic rock, is reached by a steep stair, and the Musée Crozatier and the Musée du Velay hold local history, art and lace. The Église Saint-Laurent is a further stop in the lower town.

The approach is steep, so wear good shoes, and allow time for the climb. The cathedral suits walkers, history and architecture lovers and anyone interested in pilgrim culture.