Église Saint-Laurent

The Église Saint-Laurent in Le Puy-en-Velay is a Gothic church of the Dominican order, in the lower part of the old town, a short walk from the Place du Martouret. The Dominicans, also known as the Preaching Friars, settled in Le Puy in the early thirteenth century, and their church was begun in 1221. It was enlarged in the fourteenth century, with the help of donations from the Polignac family, whose castle stands on a rock a few kilometres from the town and who were among the most powerful lords of the Velay. The result is a typical friars' church, a large, plain and austere building, with a long nave intended for preaching, in which the structure matters more than decoration.

The exterior is robust, with a stone facade, pointed arches and simple buttresses, and the interior has Gothic vaults, tall windows and some stained glass, together with a collection of carved details and furnishings. The sober style, with large spaces and good light, was designed for the sermons that were the main work of the order. In many French towns, Dominican churches stand a little apart from the cathedral, and this is a good example.

The church is best known for an unusual relic. Bertrand du Guesclin, the Breton knight who was one of the greatest commanders of the Hundred Years' War and Constable of France under King Charles V, died in July 1380 during the siege of Châteauneuf-de-Randon, a castle in the nearby Gévaudan. As was the custom for great men who died far from home, his body was divided so that parts could be buried in different places. His body was taken to the royal tomb at Saint-Denis, near Paris, and his heart went to Dinan in Brittany, while his entrails were placed in the church of the Dominicans in Le Puy, in a recess in the wall, called an enfeu. A monument records the burial. Visitors interested in medieval military history often come to see this unusual memorial.

The church is a place of worship and is open to visitors outside services. There is no entry charge, but donations are welcome. A visit takes thirty minutes.

Le Puy-en-Velay is famous for its dramatic landscape of volcanic needles, and its cathedral and the Chapelle Saint-Michel d'Aiguilhe, on a spire of rock, are the principal sights. The Musée Crozatier and the Musée du Velay add to the choice, and the old streets between them are pleasant to explore. The Saint-Laurent church suits history lovers and walkers following the pilgrim route.