Chapelle Saint-Martin

The Luberon is dotted with small chapels, and the Chapelle Saint-Martin near Gordes belongs to that world of quiet, humble buildings in the Provençal countryside. The details of this particular chapel are not well recorded, and the name is borne by more than one chapel in the area, so it is best to treat it as one of the secluded country chapels that visitors meet while exploring the hills around Gordes. The one often linked with the name stands in the ravine of Gravières, near the hamlet of La Garde, rather than in the village itself, away from the crowds.

Chapels of this kind were built in the Middle Ages and in later centuries as places of worship for farms, hamlets and shepherds, often on a spot with a view or beside a track. They are small and plain, built of the local limestone, with thick walls, a rounded barrel vault, a modest bell gable and a simple altar, and they are usually unadorned. Saint Martin, the soldier who became bishop of Tours and who is said to have cut his cloak in two to share it with a beggar, is one of the most popular saints in France, and many churches and chapels are dedicated to him. Such buildings are often closed or open only on feast days, but they are almost always set in beautiful surroundings.

The landscape is the main attraction. The limestone hills around Gordes are covered with garrigue, a scrub of oak, thyme, rosemary and lavender, which smells strongly in the heat of summer, and they are crossed by dry-stone walls, olive groves and small fields. Cliffs and ravines cut through the plateau, and paths lead through them. In the evening the stone glows in the light, and cicadas fill the air. The chapel is a good objective for a short walk, and the route can be extended on the many marked trails of the Luberon Regional Natural Park, which covers a large area around the village.

To reach the chapel and other sites in the area, driving is the best way to explore, with small car parks at the start of paths, though many roads are narrow and winding. Take water, a hat and sturdy shoes, as there is little shade and the summer heat can be intense. In dry periods, access to the forests may be restricted because of the risk of fire.

Gordes itself deserves a stop, with its castle and cobbled lanes, and a visit takes between two and four hours. Nearby, the Village des Bories, a collection of dry-stone huts with corbelled roofs, and the Abbaye de Sénanque, a Cistercian abbey in a lavender valley, are the main sights of the area. The Château de Gordes and its museum are within the village. The chapel suits walkers, photographers and anyone who enjoys the peace of the Provençal countryside.