Château d'Angers

The Château d'Angers is a vast fortress built of dark schist and pale tuffeau limestone on a rocky spur above the Maine river, in the centre of Angers, in the Loire Valley region of France. Its seventeen round towers, striped in black and white bands, give it a severe and powerful look. A fortress stood on the site since early times, and it was the base of the Counts of Anjou, later the Plantagenet kings of England. The present castle largely dates from the reign of Louis IX, known as Saint Louis, who had it rebuilt in the 1230s to secure the region for the French crown.

In the fifteenth century the castle changed character. Under Louis II of Anjou and then his widow Yolande of Aragon and her son, the cultured King René of Anjou, it became a princely residence as well as a stronghold. The royal lodge and the chapel were built or refurbished then, and the gardens laid out on the ramparts remain a quiet and attractive part of the visit. In the late sixteenth century the towers were lowered during the Wars of Religion, which is why they look somewhat squat compared with their original profile.

The star of the visit is the Apocalypse Tapestry, among the greatest works of medieval textile art in the world. It was commissioned by Louis I of Anjou in the 1370s and woven in Paris, and it illustrates the Book of Revelation across a series of huge panels. Seen up close in a dimly lit gallery built to protect it, the colours and details of the beasts, angels and battles are astonishing. The tapestry is displayed in a modern gallery in the castle grounds, and a good introduction is included with the ticket.

Beyond the tapestry, which is part of the Loire Valley’s rich heritage, the visit includes a walk along the ramparts, from which you look over the city and the river, the gardens, the royal lodge and the chapel. Allow at least two hours to see everything, and more if you like to linger over the tapestry. Rooms are often arranged around temporary exhibitions as well.

The main entrance is on the Promenade du Bout du Monde, and the castle lies a few minutes from the Cathédrale Saint-Maurice and the old town. Opening hours change by season and the ramparts can close on very hot days, so check ahead. In summer, evening events and lighting can add atmosphere, and the castle is also a pleasant place for a family visit, since children enjoy the towers and the open spaces. It combines well with the Musée des Beaux-Arts and the Musée Jean Lurçat, which hold contemporary tapestry, for those wanting to follow the textile story further.