Musée Jean Lurçat et de la Tapisserie Contemporaine

The Musée Jean Lurçat et de la Tapisserie Contemporaine in Angers is housed in the Hôpital Saint-Jean, one of the finest surviving medieval hospitals in France. The hospital was founded in the later twelfth century by Étienne de Marçay, a senior official of the Plantagenet kings, and it cared for the poor and sick of Angers for centuries. Its great hall, with tall vaulted ceilings and a soaring timber-and-stone structure, is one of the most impressive medieval interiors in the city, and the setting alone is worth the visit. The building also keeps a covered gallery, an eighteenth-century-style apothecary with its jars and equipment, and rooms that once served as an orphanage.

The museum's subject is modern tapestry, and its centrepiece is Le Chant du Monde, a monumental cycle by Jean Lurçat. The artist, who lived from 1892 to 1966, was a painter who devoted much of his career to reviving the art of tapestry in France, working with the weavers of Aubusson and developing a bold style with bright colours and a limited palette. He saw the Apocalypse Tapestry in the nearby Château d'Angers as a model of what the art could achieve, and he came to Angers to see it. Le Chant du Monde, created between 1957 and 1966, is a vast set of hangings covering the great themes of the modern world, including war and peace, the atom, and the cycle of nature, and it is presented in the old hospital hall, where its scale fits the architecture.

Other works in the collection trace the later evolution of tapestry, showing how artists after Lurçat explored new forms, textures and materials, and the museum organises its pieces in a broadly chronological way so visitors can see the progress. The museum also holds temporary exhibitions in partnership with other institutions, such as the centre for tapestry at Aubusson, and the displays change from time to time.

The visit pairs naturally with the Château d'Angers and its medieval Apocalypse tapestry, in the nearby Musée de la Tapisserie de l'Apocalypse, which show the earliest side of the story. The Musée des Beaux-Arts d'Angers, the Cathédrale Saint-Maurice, the Quartier Saint-Aubin and the Place du Ralliement are all within easy reach, and the Parc de la Roseraie and the Musée de la Magie give variety for families.

The museum suits textile lovers, art enthusiasts and anyone who likes seeing old architecture in new use. Allow an hour or two. Check the current opening times, prices and exhibition schedule before you plan your trip.