Château de Semur-en-Auxois

Semur-en-Auxois is a small town in the Côte-d'Or whose medieval centre stands on a pink granite spur above a tight loop of the River Armançon, and its profile of towers, walls and rooftops is one of the most picturesque in Burgundy. It is classified as one of the Petites Cités de Caractère, and walking around it feels like moving through several centuries. The château was the stronghold that protected this site, and although it is no longer intact, its towers still dominate the approach to the old town from the bridge.

The castle was rebuilt in the late thirteenth century for the dukes of Burgundy, in the reign of Duke Robert II, on the foundations of an earlier fortress. It had a roughly rectangular plan with four large round towers at the corners, protected by a moat and thick curtain walls, and it formed part of the defensive system of the duchy. The tallest of the towers, the keep, was a massive structure with extremely thick walls and several storeys. Over the following centuries the castle was strengthened and altered, particularly in the fourteenth century, during the long wars of the period, when wooden fighting galleries known as hourds were added to the towers.

Semur remained loyal to the dukes of Burgundy until the death of Charles the Bold in 1477, after which the duchy passed to the French crown and the castle came under royal control. During the Wars of Religion in the sixteenth century the town was caught up in the conflict, as the Catholic League held it for a time before royalist forces took it in 1589. In later centuries the castle lost its military role and was partly dismantled, and what remains today is a group of towers and sections of wall that are visible from the streets and the bridge. The surviving ensemble is impressive enough to give a clear idea of the scale of the original.

The best view of the town and its towers is from the Pont Joly, the old stone bridge over the Armançon, from which the whole spur and its fortifications can be photographed, and from the paths along the river below. Within the town, the Collégiale Notre-Dame, a Gothic church with a broad facade and a notable carved portal, is a fine example of Burgundian architecture, and the Porte Sauvigny, a medieval gate with twin towers, is another landmark. The local museum occupies the former convent of the Jacobins and contains fine arts, natural history and archaeology. The Rue de la Halle and other old streets make a good circuit.

The site suits history lovers, photographers and people who enjoy small, well-preserved towns. It is easy to combine with the Abbaye de Fontenay and other sites in the Auxois, and the Canal de Bourgogne offers walking and cycling. Allow around two hours for a stroll around the town and the towers. Check locally for opening times of the towers and museums.