Rue de la Halle

Semur-en-Auxois is a medieval town in the Côte-d'Or, built on a pink granite spur above a loop of the River Armançon, and its old centre is a tangle of narrow streets that climb between stone houses, towers and gateways. The Rue de la Halle takes its name from the market hall, or halle, that once stood in this part of town, and like many streets with such names it recalls the importance of trade in the life of a medieval community. Markets have long been central to Semur's life, and the old streets show how the town developed around them.

The town is classified among the Petites Cités de Caractère, a label given to small towns with a rich heritage, and walking its lanes is a pleasure in itself. The houses are mostly of stone, with steep roofs, carved doorways and small courtyards, and the buildings date from the Middle Ages to the eighteenth century. In places, the narrow lanes open onto small squares with fountains, and glimpses of the towers of the castle appear above the rooftops. Shops and cafés occupy many of the ground floors, and the pace of life is gentle.

The key buildings are close by. The Collégiale Notre-Dame, a large Gothic church with a broad facade and a fine carved portal, stands at the centre of the old town, and its interior holds stained glass, tapestries and sculptures. The Tour de l'Orle d'Or and the other towers of the castle rise at the western end of the town, near the Pont Joly, the old stone bridge over the Armançon from which the classic view of Semur is seen. The Porte Sauvigny, a gateway with twin towers, was once part of the fortifications. The town museum, in the former Jacobin convent, covers fine arts, natural history and archaeology.

Semur lies in the Auxois, the rolling countryside north-west of Dijon, between the Morvan hills and the Côte-d'Or, and its position makes it a good base for exploring Burgundy's cultural sites. The Abbaye de Fontenay, a Cistercian abbey listed by UNESCO, is about twenty-five kilometres to the north. The village of Flavigny-sur-Ozerain, famous for its anise sweets and as the setting of the film Chocolat, lies a short drive away, and the town of Montbard, where the naturalist Buffon had his estate and where a museum and park are devoted to him, is not far. The Canal de Bourgogne offers walking and cycling along its towpath.

The street suits those who like to explore old towns on foot. Allow a couple of hours for a walk around the centre, including the viewpoints. Early mornings and evenings are the best times to see the town at its quietest and to catch the light on the granite. Markets and events take place on certain days, so check locally. Wear sturdy shoes, since the streets are steep and the surface can be uneven.