Collégiale Saint-Loup

The great collegiate church of Semur-en-Auxois, Notre-Dame, is the principal Gothic building of the town. It stands in the centre of the old town and is a good starting point for exploring it.

Semur-en-Auxois is one of the most picturesque towns in Burgundy. It sits on a spur of pink granite, almost encircled by a loop of the Armançon river, with medieval ramparts, towers and a stone bridge that give it the look of a miniature fortress city. The streets inside climb gently between old houses, with arcades, courtyards and carved doorways, and the skyline is dominated by the towers of the church. The Château de Semur-en-Auxois, of which the great towers survive, stood at the north end of the promontory, and the town once belonged to the dukes of Burgundy.

The collegiate church was begun in the early thirteenth century and built over a long period, so it shows the development of Burgundian Gothic architecture. The western facade, with two towers and a deep porch, is reached by a stair, and the sculpted decoration in the doorways adds detail. Inside, the nave is tall and elegant, with slender columns and rib vaults, and the choir and chapels hold stained glass, sculpture and woodwork from different periods. The mixture of earlier austerity and later richness is typical of Gothic churches that were continued across the centuries, and it explains why some descriptions use the term Flamboyant for the later parts. In summer, guided tours are often organised, so ask at the tourist office.

Beyond the church, a stroll leads to the Rue de la Halle and other streets of the old town, the Pont Joly over the Armançon, and the Parc de la Combe à l'Abbé, a green space beside the river. The town's municipal museum, housed in a former convent, shows archaeology, art and natural history. Local specialities include Burgundy dishes such as boeuf bourguignon, since the Auxois is cattle country, and the Charolais beef of the region is among the best in France.

A visit takes an hour or two. It suits architecture lovers and walkers. Check opening times for the church before you go, since access is sometimes limited outside the summer season.