Church of St. Trophime

The Church of Saint-Trophime stands on the Place de la République in Arles, opposite the town hall and beside the obelisk that stands in the square. It was for centuries the cathedral of Arles, one of the oldest and most important bishoprics of Gaul, and it is dedicated to Trophimus, traditionally regarded as the first bishop of the city. Together with the Roman amphitheatre, theatre and baths, it forms part of the group of Roman and Romanesque monuments of Arles listed by UNESCO in 1981. It stands on the site of an earlier basilica, and the present church was begun in the twelfth century.

The main reason to come is the west portal, one of the great masterpieces of Provençal Romanesque sculpture. Carved in the second half of the twelfth century, it takes the form of a Roman triumphal arch, with columns and a frieze that reflect the classical remains around Arles. The tympanum above the door shows Christ in Majesty surrounded by the symbols of the four evangelists, and below him, on the frieze, the Last Judgment is spelled out in carved figures. The blessed walk toward heaven on one side, and the damned are led away in chains on the other. The detail is rich, and the stone has kept much of its sharpness thanks to the protected setting.

The interior has a tall Romanesque nave, with a narrow and high vault that makes the space feel dark and solemn. The choir was rebuilt in the Gothic style in the fifteenth century, and the contrast between the two styles is striking. Tapestries, an early Christian sarcophagus and chapels add to the interest, and the church's atmosphere is calm.

The cloister, entered from beside the church, is considered even more remarkable. It has two Romanesque galleries and two Gothic ones, built between the twelfth and the fourteenth centuries, and the capitals and the corner pillars are carved with biblical scenes and figures. Entry to the church is free, while the cloister requires a ticket, which is usually sold on site, and a combined ticket for several monuments of Arles is often available.

The church is a place of worship, so visitors should dress respectfully and keep quiet during services. Allow an hour for the church and the cloister. It suits lovers of medieval art and architecture, and it is a few steps from the Arles Amphitheatre, the Théâtre Antique and the Musée Réattu.