Citadelle de Bonifacio

Bonifacio stands on the southern tip of Corsica, and its citadel sits on a narrow limestone plateau that ends abruptly in white cliffs over the sea. The cliffs are undercut by the waves, so some of the houses at the edge seem to overhang the water. Across the Strait of Bonifacio, on a clear day, you can see Sardinia, only about a dozen kilometres away. The old town on the plateau is known as the haute ville, or upper town, and it is still lived in rather than simply preserved.

The settlement is traditionally dated to the early Middle Ages, but its present form is Genoese. In the late twelfth century Genoa took control and settled colonists here, and for centuries the town was a loyal Genoese outpost with its own privileges, defended by thick walls, bastions and a drawbridge. In 1420 it faced a siege by Alfonso V of Aragon, and a local legend says the Aragonese carved a staircase into the cliff face in a single night to reach the walls. That staircase, the Escalier du Roy d'Aragon, still exists, with its steep steps leading down toward the sea, and it is protected as a historic monument. The steps can be damp and uneven, so take care.

The entrance is through the Porte de Gênes, and from there narrow, shaded streets rise between tall stone houses linked by arches that serve as buttresses, a design that helped the buildings survive wind and attack. The Bastion de l'Étendard, an old defensive work at the southern end, has views over the harbour and the cliffs. Montée Saint-Roch leads to a high point with wide panoramas, and the church of Sainte-Marie-Majeure with its covered loggia, where the town once held meetings, is a good place to feel the old civic life. The Collégiale Saint-Antoine and the Porte d'Aval, which look out toward the sea, are nearby.

Below, the Old Port is a long fjord-like inlet lined with restaurants, boats and shops, and boat trips leave from here to see the cliffs from the water. The Bonifacio Cliffs are best seen from below for their sheer height, and from above for the sense of vertigo.

Plan on one to two hours in the citadel, longer if you add the stair and a meal. It suits walkers, photographers and anyone interested in medieval towns, but wear flat, grippy shoes. Summer days are crowded, so go early or late.