Collégiale Saint-Antoine

Bonifacio stands on the southern tip of Corsica, on a narrow limestone plateau that ends in white cliffs falling about seventy metres into the sea, and its old upper town, the Haute Ville, is among the most spectacular places in the Mediterranean. The town was founded by the Genoese in the late twelfth century, and it remained a loyal Genoese possession for centuries. The medieval streets are packed within the walls of the citadel, with tall stone houses built close together, connected by arches that carry gutters and support walls, and the buildings lean over the edge of the cliff in a way that seems to defy gravity. From the ramparts the view takes in the straits, the strait of Bonifacio, with the mountains of Sardinia visible on the other side about eleven kilometres away.

The old town has several churches that date from the Genoese period, among them Sainte-Marie-Majeure, the oldest and largest, begun in the twelfth century, with a covered loggia at its side where the council of the town met and where public notices and decisions were announced, and the Gothic Saint-Dominique, a church of the thirteenth century that was linked to the Templars and later to the Dominicans. Their robust stone walls and plain forms reflect the harsh setting and the practical needs of a fortified community, and the interiors are quiet, cool and simple, with altars and religious objects that belong to the Catholic traditions of the island. Visitors may enter as long as they respect the sacred nature of the place and keep quiet.

The upper town is best explored on foot, and the walk through the lanes takes a couple of hours. Other places to see include the Porte d'Aval, the Genoese gate and the Citadelle de Bonifacio, with its barracks, where the French Foreign Legion was based for many years, and the Staircase of the King of Aragon, a stair cut into the cliff face with about 187 steps that descends to the sea, according to legend carved in a single night during a siege in 1420. From the cliffs a coastal path leads to viewpoints over the rock formations, among them a stack called the Grain of Sand, and boat trips from the Old Port take visitors beneath the cliffs and to sea caves.

The area is open at all times, and entering the upper town is free. In summer it is very crowded, and early morning or late evening are more pleasant times to visit. Wear comfortable shoes as the paving is uneven and steep. The visit suits those interested in medieval architecture, Corsican history and dramatic coastal scenery.