Église Saint-Pierre-aux-Liens

The dedication to Saint-Pierre-aux-Liens, Saint Peter in Chains, is common among French parish churches, and it commemorates a story from the Acts of the Apostles: the imprisonment of Peter in Jerusalem and his miraculous release from his chains by an angel. The feast is celebrated on 1 August, and churches that carry the name often keep a link with the tradition, notably through the relics of chains venerated at the church of San Pietro in Vincoli in Rome. A church with this name is usually a parish church of long standing, with a nave, a bell tower and a quiet interior used by the local community for worship and for the great events of family life.

In Briançon, in the Hautes-Alpes, the fortified town's principal church is not of this name but the Collégiale Notre-Dame-et-Saint-Nicolas. That church, the Collégiale Notre-Dame-et-Saint-Nicolas, was built in the early eighteenth century to plans by Vauban's circle, and it forms part of the Cité Vauban, which has been listed by UNESCO since 2008. With its two massive towers and its thick walls, it was designed to double as a fortress, and its rough, sturdy appearance reflects the military purpose. Briançon, at more than 1,300 metres, is the highest city in France, and its streets climb steeply between the ramparts.

Churches of this kind reward a brief visit. The interior of a village church often holds carved altars, statues of saints, stained glass and votive offerings that reflect the devotions of the community, and the atmosphere is typically calm. Opening arrangements vary widely, and many churches are open only for services or by arrangement, so it is wise to ask locally or to check with the parish before visiting. Guided tours and themed visits are sometimes offered by the tourist office, and some parishes publish their schedules. Dress modestly, and avoid entering during Mass unless you intend to take part.

In the Briançon area, the outdoor attractions outweigh the indoor ones. The Citadelle de Briançon, the Bastion de la Reine and the Place d'Armes belong to the fortified town, and the Fort du Mont-Dauphin, another Vauban fortress, lies a short drive to the south. The Vallée de la Clarée, a wide glacial valley north of the town with traditional villages and chapels decorated with frescoes, offers some of the best walking in the region, and the GR 54, the Tour de l'Oisans et des Écrins, passes through the area. The Serre Chevalier ski area is close, and the Musée des Traversées explores the history of the town.

This site suits people who like to visit churches as part of understanding a region's history. A short stop of fifteen to thirty minutes is enough. Combine it with a walk around the fortified town and the ramparts, and take the time to look at the Collégiale to understand the way religious and military architecture met in this border region.