Vallée de la Clarée

The Vallée de la Clarée is a long glacial valley in the Hautes-Alpes, north of Briançon and close to the Italian border, and it is one of the most beautiful and least spoiled valleys in the French Alps. The Clarée river rises near the Col de l'Échelle and flows down through meadows and larch forests, passing small villages of stone and wood, such as Névache, before joining the Durance near Briançon. The valley lies at a height of roughly 1,400 to 2,000 metres and is bordered by high summits, including the Mont Thabor, which rises above three thousand metres and gives its name to a famous hiking circuit.

The valley's character is shaped by the way it has been protected. In the 1970s plans for large-scale development threatened the area, including roads and ski resorts, and local people, led by the writer and campaigner Émilie Carles, fought hard to save it. Carles, who lived in the valley, became famous with her memoir A Soup of Wild Herbs, which describes mountain life, and she is remembered as a symbol of the resistance that preserved the Clarée. The valley was given protected status in 1992, which has kept it free of lifts and big hotels, and traditional farming, with hay meadows and mountain pastures, continues in many places.

The biodiversity is remarkable. The combination of altitude, aspect and geology produces a large number of plant species, and in early summer the meadows are filled with alpine flowers: gentians, orchids, lilies, anemones and many more. Larch woods turn gold in autumn, and the clear air and quiet make the valley popular with walkers. Wildlife includes chamois, marmots, ibex and a range of birds. Trails range from short strolls along the river to long mountain routes, such as the Tour du Mont Thabor, and there are several mountain refuges for overnight stays. In winter, the valley is a favourite for cross-country skiing, snowshoeing and ski touring.

Briançon, at the valley's mouth, is the highest city in France, perched on a hill and surrounded by fortifications by Vauban, the military engineer of Louis XIV, which belong to the UNESCO World Heritage listing of 2008. The Citadelle de Briançon, the Bastion de la Reine, the Église Saint-Pierre-aux-Liens, the Place d'Armes and the Musée des Traversées are all part of the town, and the Fort du Mont-Dauphin lies farther south.

The valley suits walkers, families, nature lovers and photographers. Summer and early autumn are best; conditions can be severe in winter, and weather changes quickly, so bring layers and check the forecast.