Musée des Traversées

Briançon is the highest town in France, at about 1,300 metres above sea level, in the Hautes-Alpes close to the Italian border. It has guarded the passes of the Alps for centuries, and the fortifications that Vauban designed for Louis XIV around 1700 are part of the group of Vauban sites inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list in 2008. The name of the Musée des Traversées, the museum of crossings, points to the theme that runs through the whole district: the movement of armies, traders, pilgrims and travellers across the mountains.

The old town, known as the Cité Vauban, sits on a rocky spur above the Durance river and is enclosed by ramparts. Its steep, cobbled streets are lined with tall houses, and the main street has a channel running down the middle, the Grande Gargouille, which once carried water and waste. At the top stands the Citadelle, with its barracks and a view over the valleys, and the Collégiale Notre-Dame-et-Saint-Nicolas, a church built with Vauban's involvement. The Pont d'Asfeld, a high stone bridge, links the town to the forts across the gorge. The town was also a garrison for the Alpine troops, the mountain infantry, who trained here, and the military past is an important part of the story.

The passes around Briançon, notably the Col de Montgenèvre to Italy, have been crossed since Roman times, and the town sat on a major route between France and Italy. Today, this tradition continues in other ways, with hikers and cyclists following the paths and roads across the border, and the surrounding valleys, the Clarée and the Guisane, offer long-distance walking, skiing and climbing.

A guided walk through the narrow streets and the fortifications is a good way to understand the town. Guides explain the logic of Vauban's defences, which used the terrain and layers of forts on the heights. Check with the tourist office for current opening times of the museum and the tours, since these may be seasonal.

The visit suits history lovers, walkers and families and fits well with the Citadelle de Briançon, the Place d'Armes, the Bastion de la Reine and the nearby Fort du Mont-Dauphin.