Église Saint-Ursin

The church is dedicated to Saint Ursinus, who tradition holds was the first bishop of Bourges, sent from Rome in the third century to bring Christianity to the region, and the name appears on several religious sites in the city. It belongs to the quieter, neighbourhood side of Bourges' religious life, away from the great cathedral. Visitors who want to see it should check locally when it is open, as many parish churches in French towns are open only at certain hours.

Bourges is one of the most historic cities in central France, and it offers a great deal around any single church. The city began as Avaricum, the main town of a Gaulish tribe, which was besieged and taken by Julius Caesar in 52 BC. In the fifteenth century, it had a special moment of glory, when King Charles VII, driven from Paris by the English, held his court here and was mockingly called the king of Bourges. Wealthy merchants and officials built fine houses, and the most famous of them was Jacques Cœur, the king's treasurer, who built a spectacular palace, the Palais Jacques-Cœur, in the late Gothic style, decorated with carvings of his trade and his emblems.

The Cathédrale Saint-Étienne is the great monument of the city and is listed by UNESCO. Built mainly in the thirteenth century, it is notable for its broad, five-aisled interior with no transept, which gives an unusual sense of space and unity, and for its stained glass, some of the best in France, with deep blues and reds. Its portals are covered with sculpture, and a climb up the tower gives views over the old town and the surrounding plain. The cathedral stands next to gardens laid out in the French style, which are a pleasant place for a walk.

The old streets around the cathedral hold half-timbered houses, small squares and cafés, and the Musée du Berry and the Musée des Beaux-Arts de Bourges show the region's art and history. The Marais de Bourges, a network of market gardens and canals on the edge of town, is a green, peaceful corner.

A stop at a parish church such as Saint-Ursin is best treated as a pause on a walk through the old town. Dress modestly and avoid services. It suits curious walkers and church lovers. Because details are limited, ask at the tourist office.