Gave de Pau Riverbanks

Pau is a city of the Béarn, in the Pyrénées-Atlantiques, built on a plateau above the Gave de Pau, the mountain river that rises in the cirque of Gavarnie and runs down to the Atlantic by way of the Adour. The river defines the city's geography. The old town and the château stand on the edge of the high ground, and below them, the Gave winds across a flat valley, with the long line of the Pyrenees filling the horizon to the south. This relation of city, river and mountains is the essence of Pau's appeal, and the riverbanks are the place to enjoy it.

The best known view is from the Boulevard des Pyrénées, a long terrace on the edge of the plateau, which looks across the Gave to the mountain peaks, with the Pic du Midi d'Ossau, a distinctive twin-peaked summit, among the highlights on a clear day. A funicular, in service since the early twentieth century, links this terrace with the railway station in the valley below, close to the river. From there, the paths along the water give a different view, looking up at the city on its bluff, with the Château de Pau rising above the trees. The château, where Henri IV, the first Bourbon king of France, was born in 1553, is among the main monuments of the region.

The banks of the Gave are used for walking, running and cycling, and the paths pass through meadows and woods, with benches and viewpoints. The river is popular with anglers, as salmon and trout live in it, and some stretches are used for canoeing and kayaking. The sound of the water, the mountain air and the changing light make the banks a pleasant place for a walk in any season. The vineyards of Jurançon, across the river, produce the sweet and dry white wines for which the area is known, and a visit to a producer can be added to the day.

Pau has a gentle climate, and in the nineteenth century it was a favourite winter resort for the British, who brought sports like fox hunting, golf and, later, motor racing. The Pau Grand Prix, a street race, still takes place in the city. The Parc Beaumont, with its gardens and casino, the Place du Palais and the Musée des Beaux-Arts are in the centre.

The riverbanks are public and open at all times. They suit walkers, families and anyone who wants to see Pau from the water, and they combine well with a visit to the château. Allow an hour or two.