Gorges du Tarn

The Gorges du Tarn form one of the great canyons of France, cut by the river Tarn through the limestone plateaus of the Causses in the south of the Massif Central. The gorge runs through the departments of Lozère and Aveyron, between Sainte-Enimie and the area of Le Rozier, with the river continuing on toward Millau. In places the walls rise several hundred metres, pale orange and grey cliffs topped with scrub and pine, and the water below is a clear green.

The landscape belongs to the Causses and the Cévennes, a UNESCO World Heritage Site recognised for its Mediterranean agropastoral culture, and the nearby plateaus, the Causse Méjean and the Causse de Sauveterre, are very different in feeling from the canyon: high, open and almost empty. The contrast between plateau and gorge is part of the appeal, and it is easiest to appreciate on the winding road that follows the river.

Historically important, the road, built in the early twentieth century as one of the first purpose-built tourist roads in France, made the canyon accessible to visitors. Stops along it include Sainte-Enimie, a village built around a medieval abbey site, the Cirque des Baumes, a curving amphitheatre of cliffs, and the narrows known as the Détroits, where the river is squeezed between steep walls. The Point Sublime is a viewpoint over the canyon, and traditional flat-bottomed boats operate from La Malène through the narrowest section. Historic hotels such as the Grand Hotel de la Muse near Mostuéjols recall the early days of tourism here.

Outdoor activities are the main reason to come. Canoeing and kayaking are popular from late spring to early autumn, when the water is warm and slow-moving, and hiking trails climb from the villages to the clifftops and across the plateaus. Cyclists use the road, although it is narrow and busy in summer, and climbers find routes on the rock walls. Birdwatchers can look for vultures reintroduced to the area, which soar above the cliffs.

Millau lies at the southern end of the region, and the Millau Viaduct, the tall bridge on the A75 motorway, is an easy addition to a day's trip. The motorway offers fast access from the south and north, but the gorge road rewards slow travel with frequent viewpoints. Summer brings crowds, so the shoulder seasons of spring and autumn are quieter, and sturdy footwear and a good supply of water are sensible for any walk.