Marché de Millau

Millau is a town in the south of the Aveyron, on the river Tarn at the edge of the Grands Causses, and its market is the best place to taste the food of this region. The market is a local one, held on certain mornings of the week in the squares and streets of the old centre, and it is a different experience from the famous viaduct that spans the valley nearby, which belongs to a separate visit. Here the focus is on food shopping and the farms of the plateau.

The Aveyron is a land of livestock and cheese, and the stalls show it. The best-known product of the area is Roquefort, the blue cheese made from sheep's milk and matured in the natural caves at Roquefort-sur-Soulzon, a short drive from Millau, and you will find it on the cheese stalls alongside other local cheeses, among them Laguiole, a firm cheese from the high plateau of Aubrac, and fresh and aged goat's cheeses. Charcuterie is another strength, with dried sausages, hams and pâtés, and the local butchers offer specialities of the region, including tripoux, small parcels of tripe and sheep's feet that are cooked slowly, a traditional dish of Millau and the Aveyron. Lamb from the Causses is highly regarded.

The bakers sell the fouace, a golden brioche-like cake shaped as a crown, which is a traditional Aveyron bread, and other regional pastries. Stalls with fruit and vegetables supply what the growers of the Tarn valley produce in each season, including apples, cherries and pears, and there are honeys, jams and walnut products. Some producers offer wines from the nearby vineyards of Marcillac, whose red wine has its own appellation. Dishes you may want to try in the restaurants after your shopping include aligot, the mashed potato whipped with fresh cheese until it forms long strands, served with sausage, and various preparations of the plateau's meat.

Millau has a long tradition of leatherwork, particularly gloves, and it was once the glove capital of France, with dozens of workshops. A museum and some shops keep the tradition alive, and you can see leather goods in the town. The town's outdoor activities, including paragliding, canoeing and hiking in the gorges, attract many visitors, and the market makes a good start to a day in the open air.

The market is free to wander through. Visit in the morning, as stalls close around midday, and bring a bag. The exact market days and locations vary, so ask at the tourist office or check the town's website. Other places to see nearby include the Gorges du Tarn, the ruins of the Château de Millau and the Millau Viaduct, one of the major sights of France, which can be reached in a few minutes by car.