Gulf of Morbihan Boat Tours

The Gulf of Morbihan is a shallow, sheltered inland sea on the south coast of Brittany, and its name in Breton, Mor Bihan, means little sea. It is dotted with some forty islands, large and small, and cut by narrow channels, so that every turn of the tide changes the look of the landscape. Boats are the best way to see it, and Vannes, at the head of the gulf, is one of the main places to take one. The bay belongs to the Club of the Most Beautiful Bays in the World, and it is easy to see why when the water is glittering and the islands are shifting in the light.

Boat tours leave from the port of Vannes, close to the old town, and from other points around the gulf, including the Conleau peninsula, a short distance away, and ports on the Rhuys peninsula and Locmariaquer. The excursions range from short cruises of an hour or so to day trips with stops on islands, and they use a variety of vessels, from modern passenger boats to traditional sailing ships. Passengers see the islands, the oyster farms, the stone cottages and the birdlife, as the gulf is a major wintering site for migratory birds, including Brent geese and waders that feed on the mudflats at low tide.

The two largest inhabited islands, the Île-aux-Moines and the Île d'Arz, can be reached by regular ferries and are good for walking and cycling, with sandy lanes, fields, coastal paths, and small villages. Other islands are private or protected. Among the most remarkable sights is the island of Gavrinis, which holds a Neolithic passage tomb more than five thousand years old, whose inner stones are covered with elaborate carved patterns of spirals and curves. Boats leave for Gavrinis from Larmor-Baden, and visits are limited and need to be booked. Another notable site is Er Lannic, a stone circle partly submerged by the rising sea. The region is rich in megalithic monuments, from the alignments of Carnac to the tumuli of Locmariaquer, and boat trips often highlight this heritage.

Tides and currents matter. The entrance to the gulf, at Port-Navalo, is narrow, and the water rushes in and out with great force, creating strong currents that sailors respect. Tour operators plan their routes with tides in mind, and trips may be adjusted, so it pays to check schedules and book ahead in summer. A windproof jacket is useful even on sunny days.

Vannes itself is a pleasant town to explore before or after a cruise. The old town is surrounded by medieval ramparts, with gardens and washhouses along the walls, and the narrow streets are lined with half-timbered houses leading to the Place Henri IV and the cathedral of Saint-Pierre. The Cohue museum, in a medieval market hall, shows fine arts. On the Rhuys peninsula to the south, the Château de Suscinio, once a residence of the dukes of Brittany, and the port of the Crouesty offer further stops. The boat tours suit families, couples, bird watchers and anyone who loves the sea, and they are best taken in good weather between spring and autumn.