Vannes Old Town (Vieux-Vannes)

Vannes is a small walled town on the Gulf of Morbihan, in southern Brittany, and its old centre is one of the best-preserved in the region. A Gallo-Roman town stood here, and in the Middle Ages the dukes of Brittany often stayed in Vannes. The town's later history has its own importance: in 1532 the edict uniting Brittany with the kingdom of France was signed here, and in the late seventeenth century the Parlement de Bretagne was moved to Vannes for several years, which brought officials and a wave of building work.

The core of the old town sits inside the ramparts, which are among the best surviving medieval walls in Brittany. Gates, towers and sections of wall can be followed on a walk around the outside, and at the foot of the walls a formal garden laid out with flowerbeds in the French style gives a calm foreground for photographs. The Porte Saint-Vincent is the best-known gate, a grand entrance with statues, and the old streets lead up from it to the centre.

Inside, narrow lanes lead to small squares lined with half-timbered houses, many of them leaning, painted in soft colours and decorated with carved figures. The Place Henri IV and the streets around it have some of the most photogenic examples, while a house in rue Noé is known for a pair of carved heads called Vannes and his wife. Granite sculpture is part of the town's character, and the streets have a lived-in feel, with small shops, cafes and independent boutiques. Much of the centre is closed to cars, so the pace is relaxed.

The Cathédrale Saint-Pierre is a mixture of styles, with a Gothic core, later Renaissance chapels and a spacious interior. Nearby, La Cohue is a medieval market hall that now holds the town's fine-arts museum, and the Place du Martray, beside the cathedral, is a pleasant place to stop for a meal. The Vannes City Walls and the Château Gaillard, where the archaeology museum is housed, can be combined in the same walk.

The town also has a modern side, with street art, concerts and exhibitions in venues around the centre. Boat trips on the Gulf of Morbihan leave from the port, and the Château de Suscinio and the Port du Crouesty lie a short drive away.

It suits walkers, history lovers and anyone who enjoys small towns at an easy pace. The shoulder seasons are quieter than high summer, when the lanes can be crowded.