La Vilaine River Banks

The Vilaine is the river that gave Rennes its character, and its banks are among the most pleasant places to walk, cycle and sit in the Breton capital. The river rises in the Mayenne and flows for about 220 kilometres to the Atlantic, and it passes through the centre of the city in a canalised channel, with stone quays on both sides. For much of the nineteenth century it was an open sewer, and in the 1840s and 1850s the central stretch was covered over to create the city's main streets and squares, which is why the river disappears from view in the middle of Rennes and re-emerges at either side. The riverside spaces have been redeveloped in recent decades, and the Vilaine has become a place for leisure.

The quays are the best places to enjoy it. The Quai Saint-Cyr and the Quai Émile Zola, the latter being the site of the former Musée de Bretagne, give views of the river, the bridges and the historic buildings, and the water is lined with trees. The towpaths and cycle paths on the banks make it easy to walk, jog or ride a bicycle, and there is a longer route that leads from the city along the canal of Ille-et-Rance, a greenway of about eighty-five kilometres that goes all the way to the coast at Saint-Malo, a favourite with cyclists. In the city, the paths pass under bridges and through a series of landscaped areas, with benches and grass for picnics.

To see the city from the water, you can take an electric boat or hire a kayak, and a gentle paddle through the middle of Rennes gives a different view of the old town and the modern districts. In summer, cafés and bars along the quays put out terraces, with views of the river, and the atmosphere is especially lively on warm evenings, when students and young people gather.

The banks blend the historic and modern city. At one end, the old town, with its half-timbered houses, narrow streets and the Parlement de Bretagne, is within a short distance, and at the other, newer areas such as the Prairies Saint-Martin, a green meadow by the river, provide open space.

The river paths are public and open at any time. They suit walkers, cyclists, families and anyone who wants a quiet moment after sightseeing. Allow an hour for a stroll. The Cathédrale Saint-Pierre de Rennes, the Musée de Bretagne, the Musée des Beaux-Arts de Rennes, the Parc du Thabor and the Rue Saint-Michel, with its bars, are within walking distance.