Limoges Covered Market (Marché Couvert)

The covered market of Limoges, known as Les Halles Centrales, stands in the pedestrian streets around the Place de la Motte, and it is one of the best places in the city to taste the food of the Limousin. The market hall was built in 1889 and it is a fine example of the architecture of iron and glass that was fashionable in the late nineteenth century, when cities across France built covered markets modelled on those of Paris. Its frame is made of cast iron, in a style that recalls the work of Gustave Eiffel, with slender columns and arches that support a roof of glass and zinc, and its walls are of brick, which gives it a warm, harmonious look. It has been protected as a historic monument since 1976, and a major renovation, finished in 2019, restored it and updated its facilities.

The most famous decoration is on the outside. A frieze of 328 ceramic tiles runs around the building, with pictures of animals, fruit and vegetables, and it is a reminder that Limoges is the world capital of porcelain, which has been made in the city since the late eighteenth century, when deposits of kaolin, the white clay that is the key raw material, were found nearby. Porcelain tiles are rare in this kind of building, and the frieze gives the market its character. The town was named a UNESCO Creative City for craft and folk art, and a showroom in the hall shows contemporary work in the fire arts, ceramics, enamel and glass.

Inside, the market has stalls selling the produce of the region, and it is a delight for anyone who enjoys food. The Limousin is cattle country, and the Limousine breed of beef cattle is among the best known in France, so the butchers' stalls are a highlight, with beef and veal of high quality. The region also produces lamb and pork, along with the cheeses of the Massif Central, chestnuts, mushrooms, the Limousin apple, which has its own protected label, honey and walnuts. A traditional dessert of the area is the clafoutis, a baked custard with cherries. Bakers, fishmongers, charcutiers and vegetable sellers fill the hall, and there are cafés and stands where you can eat on the spot, with tasting areas for those who want to sample products. The renovated hall also has relaxation areas.

The market is open on most mornings, with longer hours on some days, and the busiest time is Saturday morning. Prices and hours vary, so check before you go. A visit takes about an hour, more if you stay for lunch.

The market lies close to the rue de la Boucherie, the old butchers' street, whose low houses once belonged to the powerful guild of butchers, and which is now a district of restaurants and bars. The cathedral of Saint-Étienne, the Musée des Beaux-Arts de Limoges and the national porcelain museum, the Musée national Adrien Dubouché, are within walking distance. The market suits food lovers, architecture fans and anyone interested in the Limousin.