Marché d'Issoire

Issoire is a town on the Allier river, in the Puy-de-Dôme, about thirty-five kilometres south of Clermont-Ferrand, and its Saturday market is one of the largest and liveliest in the Auvergne. The stalls fill the squares and streets of the old centre, around the Place de la République, the Place de la Montagne and the Rue Berbiziale, and the market draws shoppers from the surrounding villages and valleys. It runs on Saturday mornings, from early morning until about midday, and it is a good place to see the Auvergne's food and farm culture at first hand.

The products reflect the rich agriculture of the region. The Auvergne is famous for its cheeses, and the market has a range of them, from Saint-Nectaire, a soft, earthy cheese made on the slopes of the nearby Monts Dore, to Cantal, Salers, Bleu d'Auvergne and Fourme d'Ambert, which are all protected by appellation. Charcuterie stalls sell cured hams and dry sausages from the mountains, farmers offer fresh fruit and vegetables from the fertile plain of the Limagne, and others sell honey, walnuts, lentils from the Puy, local wines and bread. In autumn, mushrooms and chestnuts appear, and in spring and summer the stalls are full of strawberries, cherries and greens. Stallholders often offer small tastes, which makes it easy to try before buying.

Issoire has an interesting heart as well. The Abbatiale Saint-Austremoine, a Romanesque church of the twelfth century, is one of the great churches of the Auvergne, and its massive, rounded apse with radiating chapels is a fine example of the regional style. Inside, painted decoration of the nineteenth century covers the walls and columns in rich colours, and the carved capitals show scenes from the Bible. The old centre has a clock tower, the Tour de l'Horloge, and narrow lanes with houses of the volcanic stone of the region, as well as the remains of the ring of boulevards that replaced the old walls. A short walk leads to the Allier river and its bridges.

The market is also a gateway to the countryside. Issoire lies at the foot of the Parc Naturel Régional des Volcans d'Auvergne, and the volcanic landscape of the Puy de Dôme and the Monts Dore is within easy reach. Villages with Romanesque churches, such as Saint-Nectaire and Orcival, and castles perched on volcanic rocks, can be visited in a day trip, and the Allier valley is good for walking and cycling. The town also has a museum of mining history.

The market suits food lovers, families and travellers who like to see a working market. Arrive early to find parking and the best choice, and bring bags and cash. The market operates year-round, though it is busiest in the warm months, and the stalls begin to pack up at midday. A morning at the market followed by a visit to the church and a lunch in a local restaurant makes a pleasant day.