Parc de la Vésone

The Parc de la Vésone in Périgueux is the setting for the remains of Vesunna, the Gallo-Roman city that stood here before the medieval town grew up around the cathedral. Périgueux was the capital of the Petrocorii, a Gaulish tribe whose name survives in the word Périgord, and under Roman rule the town was an important centre in Aquitaine. The site lies on a bend of the Isle river, a short distance from the old centre, and combines a landmark Roman ruin with a striking modern museum.

The most prominent feature is the Tour de Vésone, a circular stone tower about 24 metres high, which is the surviving cella, or inner sanctuary, of a large temple dedicated to the goddess Vesunna, the deity of the town. Its walls are about two metres thick, and a great breach on one side lets you see the construction of the inner structure. The temple was built in a Roman style but on a plan, round and not rectangular, that reflects a Celtic tradition, and this blend is one of the things that makes it interesting. The tower stands in the open park, and walking around it gives an idea of the scale of the sanctuary that once surrounded it.

Next to the tower is the Vesunna Gallo-Roman Museum, designed by the architect Jean Nouvel and opened in 2003. It is a large glass-walled hall built over the excavated remains of a Roman town house, a domus, and visitors walk on raised walkways above the foundations, looking down on the rooms, courtyards and underfloor heating system. The architecture makes the ruins the central exhibit and lets daylight reach them while protecting them from weather. Painted plaster from the walls, mosaics, jewellery, pottery and everyday objects show how a prosperous family lived in the second and third centuries.

Opening hours depend on the season, with longer days in July and August, and the museum is usually closed on Mondays, so check ahead. Allow one to two hours for the museum and the tower, and more if you enjoy the park. The site is accessible for visitors with reduced mobility.

The park suits history lovers, architecture enthusiasts and families, as the walkways and the reconstructions help children to picture Roman life. In the old town, the Cathédrale Saint-Front, with its Byzantine-style domes, the Musée du Périgord and the Rue des Halles continue the story of Périgueux through later centuries.