Place du Martray

The Place du Martray is a small square in the old centre of Vannes, close to the cathedral and within the lines of the old walls, and it is a good starting point for a walk through the town. The name is an old one that recalls a place associated with martyrs or with a public gathering ground, and many French towns have a square of similar name. Reliable details about the square's own history are scarce, so it is best seen as part of the cluster of lanes around it, where Vannes shows its medieval and Renaissance character.

The square lies next to the Cathédrale Saint-Pierre, a building that combines several centuries of work, with a Romanesque tower, a Gothic nave, and Renaissance and classical chapels, and that holds the tomb of Saint Vincent Ferrer, the Spanish Dominican preacher who died in Vannes in 1419. Vincent Ferrer travelled across Europe preaching and was canonised in 1455, and his memory is still honoured in the town, with a statue and a chapel dedicated to him. Close by, La Cohue, a medieval market hall, now houses the museum of fine arts, and the Rue des Halles, a street with old timber-framed houses, leads toward the centre.

The timber-framed houses of the old town are one of its great pleasures. They are built of oak and plaster, with upper floors that jut out over the street, and many are decorated with carved beams, some with grotesque faces and figures, in colours from pale grey to deep red. A house in the Rue Noé shows a pair of carved heads known locally as Vannes and his wife, which has become a symbol of the town. The cafés that open onto the square and the surrounding lanes make it a good place to sit and watch the town go by, and the evening light on the stone and timber is particularly attractive.

The ramparts are a short walk away. The Vannes City Walls, with their gates and towers, and the gardens laid out at their foot, give a view of the old town from outside, and the Port, at the end of a long canal, is a lively place where boats leave for the Gulf of Morbihan. Boat trips take visitors to the islands of the Gulf, and a drive leads to the Château de Suscinio and the Port du Crouesty. The Vannes Old Town is a pedestrian zone in much of its centre.

The square is free and open at all times. A stop takes only a few minutes, or longer with a coffee. It suits walkers, history lovers and photographers. Markets fill nearby squares on certain mornings, so check the days if you wish to see them.