Sentier de Grande Randonnée GR54

The GR54 is one of the most spectacular long-distance walking routes in the French Alps, a circuit of the Écrins massif that is widely known as the Tour de l'Oisans et des Écrins. It runs for well over a hundred and fifty kilometres through the middle of the Parc national des Écrins, which was created in 1973 to protect some of the wildest high-mountain country in France, and it normally takes ten to fourteen days to complete, depending on the route and the stage choices. The nearest town for many walkers is Briançon, and the trail passes through the valleys on the southern and western sides of the massif.

The Écrins is the highest massif in France outside Mont Blanc. Its summit, the Barre des Écrins, rises to more than 4,000 metres, and around it spread glaciers, high cirques, glacial lakes, rock walls and steep valleys. The GR54 does not climb the highest peaks, but it passes close to them, crossing high passes on the way, among them the Col du Lautaret, a route between the Romanche valley and Briançon, and taking walkers up into the realm of rock and ice. On the way, the trail passes through villages such as La Bérarde, a tiny mountaineering hamlet in a high valley, and Vallouise, in the Briançonnais, and descends into green valleys with hay meadows and larch forests, so the walk offers contrasting landscapes in a single day.

The route is demanding. The stages involve long climbs and descents, with a total of thousands of metres of ascent over the whole route, and the weather in the high mountains can change quickly, with storms, cold and snow even in summer. It is suitable only for experienced walkers with good fitness and proper equipment. Mountain refuges, run by the Club Alpin Français and others, provide beds and meals along the way, and they need to be booked in advance in the busy season. The walking season is short, usually from late June or early July to September, and snow can linger on the high passes into July.

The wildlife is a highlight. Marmots whistle among the rocks, chamois and ibex can be seen on the slopes, and the Alpine flowers in the meadows in early summer are spectacular, with gentians, edelweiss and many rare species. Eagles and other birds of prey soar above the valleys.

Briançon, the base for many visitors, has its own attractions. The Citadelle de Briançon, the Bastion de la Reine, the Église Saint-Pierre-aux-Liens, the Place d'Armes and the Musée des Traversées recall the military history of the frontier, and the Vallée de la Clarée and the Fort du Mont-Dauphin are within reach for shorter outings.

The trail suits experienced hikers who enjoy long mountain journeys. Plan carefully, check conditions and book refuges early.