Vallée de l'Ain

The Ain is one of the main rivers of the Jura, and its valley is a long, green, winding landscape that is quite distinct from the amphitheatre of Baume-les-Messieurs, even though the two are often mentioned together. The river rises in the high plateaus of the central Jura, near Nozeroy, and flows south through limestone country, passing through gorges and wooded hills before reaching the Rhône. Along the way, it has been dammed to form a series of lakes, the largest of which, the Lac de Vouglans, is among the biggest artificial lakes in France, and a popular place for swimming, boating and water sports in summer. The old description of the Ain as the river cutting through the Baume valley is a mistake, since the blind valley of Baume belongs to a different river system, so the two sites should be seen as neighbouring but separate attractions.

The Ain valley itself is known for the beauty of its scenery. Steep slopes of beech and fir rise on both sides, with limestone cliffs breaking out of the trees, and in places the river runs in a deep, narrow gorge, with clear green water. Marked paths and tracks lead along the banks and over the hills, and the area is popular with walkers, cyclists and anglers. The waterfalls in the upper valley are a particular attraction. The Cascades du Hérisson, a series of waterfalls that tumble down a wooded gorge in a chain of steps, are among the best known in the Jura and can be visited by a path that passes several falls in the course of a walk of a couple of hours. The mist and the sound of falling water make a very refreshing excursion on a hot day.

Baume-les-Messieurs, a short drive to the west, is the village with the imperial abbey, the cave and the waterfalls of tufa, and its Abbaye de Baume-les-Messieurs, the Grotte de Baume-les-Messieurs and the Parc de la Source make a natural half-day excursion. The village, with its narrow stone streets and ancient houses, offers a tangible connection to medieval France. Long-distance footpaths cross the area, and the landscape is rich in flowers in spring and in autumn colour.

The food of the region is part of the visit. The Jura is the home of Comté cheese, made from the milk of mountain cows and aged in cellars, of cured smoked sausages, and of unusual wines, including the yellow wine of vin jaune. Lons-le-Saunier and the wine village of Château-Chalon are within reach.

The valley suits walkers, families, swimmers and nature lovers. Summer is the busiest season, while spring and autumn are quieter. Check the conditions for the waterfall paths after rain.