Cathédrale Notre-Dame-de-l'Assomption

Clermont-Ferrand's cathedral is built of black stone, which makes it unlike almost any other Gothic church in France. The stone is Volvic lava, quarried north of the city in the chain of extinct volcanoes that includes the Puy de Dôme, and its dark grey to black colour gives the cathedral a severe and dramatic look, especially under a heavy Auvergne sky. The building stands on the high point of the old city, and its two spires can be seen from far across the plain.

Construction began in 1248 under Bishop Hugues de La Tour, with Jean Deschamps, who worked on other great Gothic projects in the south of France, as master builder. The plan follows the French Gothic style of the period, with tall bays, a choir surrounded by chapels and slender piers. The works were interrupted for long periods, and the nave remained unfinished for centuries. It was only in the nineteenth century that the architect Viollet-le-Duc, working with others, designed the western facade and the spires, which were completed around the end of the century. This explains why the east end is medieval and the west end is a neo-Gothic reconstruction in the same dark stone.

Inside, the choir and chapels retain stained glass from the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, including a large rose window in the transept. The dark stone makes the glass appear especially luminous. Some of the glass is of high quality, and it contrasts with the plain surfaces of the lava walls. Underneath the cathedral lie the remains of earlier churches, including a crypt linked to the first cathedral of the city, reached on a guided visit where it is offered.

The city has a place in a famous moment of medieval history: in 1095 Pope Urban II preached at the Council of Clermont and called for the First Crusade, an event tied to the city rather than to this building, since the present cathedral was begun long after. It is still worth knowing when you stand in front of it.

The cathedral is a working church, so visitors should respect services and quiet. It suits anyone interested in Gothic architecture, volcanic landscapes and the Auvergne, and it lies near the Place de Jaude and the Quartier de la Boucherie, so it is easily visited on a walking tour. The Puy de Dôme and the Musée d'Art Roger-Quilliot are good additions.