Château de Saint-Céneri-le-Gérei

Saint-Céneri-le-Gérei sits in a loop of the River Sarthe on the southern edge of Normandy, in the Orne department, close to the border with Mayenne and the wooded hills known as the Alpes Mancelles. It is classified among the Plus Beaux Villages de France and is also a Petite Cité de Caractère, and the combination explains why so few modern buildings spoil its appearance. Houses of grey and brown stone with slate roofs cluster on the slope above the river, linked by narrow lanes, a medieval stone bridge and a small chapel, and the whole scene is dominated by a few ruins on the rock above.

The village's name comes from Saint Céneri, a hermit who is said to have come from Italy and settled on the banks of the Sarthe in the seventh century. A small oratory and a chapel dedicated to him mark the places linked to his legend, and pilgrims long came here to venerate him. In the eleventh century the site fell under the control of the Giroie family, powerful Norman lords whose castle stood on the rock above the river. Only fragments of the castle survive, but its position is still evident, and the walk up through the village gives a sense of how it controlled the crossing.

The village church, which dates from the twelfth century and is Romanesque in style, is a main attraction. It is a modest building, but it contains medieval wall paintings that have survived centuries of change, and a visit takes only a few minutes. The setting matters as much as the church, because the river, the bridge and the surrounding woods form a landscape of great calm. The village became popular with painters in the nineteenth century, when artists began working outdoors rather than in the studio. Camille Corot was among those who stayed here, and the Saint-Céneri school of painters grew from this activity. The inns where the artists lodged, including the Auberge des sœurs Moisy, still welcome guests today.

The best way to enjoy the village is to walk. The lanes are short, the bridge is a few steps from the church, and footpaths follow the river along the Gorges de la Sarthe, giving views of rocks, water and woods. Fishing and canoeing are common along this stretch of river. The surrounding region is part of the Normandie-Maine regional nature park, which protects a landscape of hedged farmland, forests and rivers, and visitors can combine the village with the nearby Alpes Mancelles for longer hikes.

Saint-Céneri suits those who enjoy small places and slow travel, painters and photographers, and walkers exploring the Sarthe valley. It is best visited on a quiet weekday or in the shoulder seasons, because in summer and on public holidays the car park can fill. Allow two hours or so for the village, and add time for a meal at a local inn. The tourist office can provide trail maps, and opening times of the church and chapel may vary, so check locally before visiting.