Église Saint-Céneri

Saint-Céneri-le-Gérei is a tiny village on the Sarthe river, in the Orne department of Normandy, on the edge of the wooded hills known as the Alpes Mancelles, and it is listed among the most beautiful villages of France. The houses of grey and ochre stone climb a rocky spur above a loop of the river, a medieval stone bridge crosses the water, and the whole scene looks much as it did when painters came here in the nineteenth century. Jean-Baptiste-Camille Corot stayed in the village and painted the bridge and the river, and the place has attracted artists ever since.

The village owes its name and origin to a hermit. Céneri, or Serenicus, was a monk from Italy who is said to have settled in the area in the seventh century, built an oratory on the bank of the river and gathered disciples. A small community grew up around his hermitage, and in later centuries the village developed around the church. The present Église Saint-Céneri stands on the rocky promontory, built in the early twelfth century of sandstone and granite, and its position makes it a landmark that can be seen from across the valley.

The church is small and austere on the outside, in the Romanesque style, but its interior has a treasure in the form of wall paintings. Frescoes of the twelfth and fourteenth centuries survive on the walls and were carefully restored in 2006, and they show scenes and figures painted in earthy reds, ochres and blacks. Because wall paintings from these periods are rare in Normandy, the interior is a good place to see medieval devotional art as it was originally seen. The church is open every day through the year, which makes it easy to include in a visit.

Below the church, near the river, stands a small chapel of the fifteenth century dedicated to Saint Céneri, built on the site that is said to have been his first oratory. It contains stained glass made in 2007 by the artist Cathy Van Hollebeke, which brings a contemporary touch to the old walls. The chapel opens in summer, and it is wise to ask at the village or telephone ahead to confirm access. Group visits can be arranged.

The village is very small, and an hour or two is enough to walk its cobbled lanes, cross the bridge and look at the church and chapel. The Gorges de la Sarthe, a stretch of the river valley with walking paths and canoeing, extend along the river nearby.

It suits walkers, artists, photographers and those who enjoy quiet places. The remains of the castle, the Château de Saint-Céneri-le-Gérei, and the village centre add to the interest.