Gorges de la Sarthe

The Sarthe is a river that wanders north from the hills of lower Normandy and then cuts across a ridge of hard rock on the borders of the Orne, Mayenne and Sarthe departments, and where it does so it has carved a winding valley with wooded slopes and rocky outcrops. This stretch, often called the Gorges de la Sarthe and linked to the area known as the Alpes Mancelles, is one of the most attractive landscapes of the Normandie-Maine regional nature park. The village of Saint-Céneri-le-Gérei sits on its banks and is the best-known place on the river, and the valley around it has inspired painters, walkers and anglers for generations.

The geology explains the look of the valley. The river runs through a belt of old, hard rock of the Armorican Massif, of sandstone and schist, which has resisted erosion and forced the river into tight bends. The sandstone has a reddish-brown tone, and the local stone, called grès roussard, is the building stone of the area, which is why the houses, walls and bridges of Saint-Céneri have a warm, russet colour. The slopes are covered with oak, beech and heath, and rocky outcrops rise from the woods, giving views over the river. The landscape is more rugged than much of Normandy, and the name Alpes Mancelles, though it exaggerates, reflects the surprise of a hilly, rocky terrain in a region of gentle plains.

Walking is the best way to explore. Paths follow the river and climb through the woods, and long-distance routes such as the GR 36 pass through the area. A trail called Saint-Céneri sur le motif links points in the village that painters used, with information panels showing reproductions of their works at the sites where they were painted, and it gives an interesting way to see the landscape through artists' eyes. The route passes the Romanesque church with its old wall paintings, the chapel associated with the hermit Saint Céneri and the bridge over the Sarthe. Other trails lead upstream and downstream, with views of rock formations and the river from above.

The river itself is an attraction. In summer, canoes and kayaks can be rented in the area to paddle along the Sarthe, with the current carrying you past rocks and woods, and anglers fish for trout and other species in the cool water. Saint-Léonard-des-Bois, a village in the Sarthe department, is the main centre of the Alpes Mancelles, with trails, a campsite and a riverside setting. The villages of the valley are small and unspoilt, with few shops, but their inns serve regional dishes such as cider-based sauces and local cheeses.

The valley suits walkers, canoeists, painters and anyone who likes quiet river scenery. Spring and autumn are especially attractive, with fresh greens and warm colours, and the summer is popular for water sports. Alençon lies about a dozen kilometres away, and the tourist office at Saint-Céneri, open in the warmer months, supplies maps and advice. Bring sturdy shoes, since paths can be rocky and muddy, and check river conditions before setting out in a boat.