Corte Old Town

Corte sits in the mountainous centre of Corsica, far from the coast, and its old town climbs a rocky spur above the meeting point of the Tavignano and Restonica rivers. For a few years in the eighteenth century it was the capital of an independent Corsica. From 1755 to 1769 Pasquale Paoli, the leader of the Corsican Republic, governed from here, and he founded a university in Corte, which is why the town is still seen as the intellectual and political centre of the island. A modern university named for Paoli was refounded in 1981 and keeps the town young and lively out of the summer season.

The old town is built of dark local stone, with steep stepped lanes, small squares and houses packed along the ridge. The main street, the Cours Paoli, runs through the lower town and is lined with cafés, while the older upper quarter has narrower streets leading up towards the citadel. The Place Gaffory, with a statue of General Gaffory, is a pleasant spot with views, and the Palais National, associated with Paoli's government, is nearby.

Above everything stands the Citadelle de Corte, the only inland citadel in Corsica. The Genoese began the fortress in the early fifteenth century, and it was strengthened and altered in later centuries. The best known part is the Nid d'Aigle, the Eagle's Nest, a small castle perched on a rocky outcrop above the town that makes for a photogenic view from below. Inside the citadel, the nineteenth-century Serrurier Barracks house the Musée de la Corse, which opened in 1997. It presents the ethnographic collection of Father Louis Doazan alongside displays about Corsican customs and history, and from the Belvédère, a terrace above the valley, you can see the Restonica and Tavignano valleys, with the high mountains behind.

Corte is also a gateway to the interior. The Gorges de la Restonica, a short drive away, and the Gorges du Tavignano, reached on foot, are major walking areas, and the town sits in the Parc Naturel Régional de Corse. Many visitors use it as a base for hikes and swim in the mountain pools in summer.

The town suits history enthusiasts, hikers, and travellers wanting to see the island away from beach resorts. Plan a few hours for the old town and the citadel, and check the museum's opening schedule, since it varies with the season.