Gorges du Tavignano

The Tavignano is one of the main rivers of Corsica, rising high in the mountains near the Lac de Nino and flowing east through the town of Corte before reaching the sea on the island's east coast. Above Corte, the river has cut a long valley and a series of narrow gorges through granite and schist, and a path follows it up into the interior. The walk starts close to the old town, which makes it unusually easy to reach, since you can leave the cafes of Corte and be among the river pools and chestnut woods within a short time.

The path is part of the Mare a Mare Nord, a long-distance route that crosses Corsica from the east coast to the west, passing through Corte on its way. Along the Tavignano valley, the trail climbs gently above the water, runs through shade made by holm oaks, chestnut and pine, and drops to the river at places where the stream forms clear pools. In summer these pools are tempting, but the current can be strong after rain or snowmelt, so choose a spot with care. The sound of water and the smell of the maquis, the island's scented scrub of myrtle, cistus and wild herbs, give the walk its character.

Old descriptions of this walk sometimes confuse it with other Corsican rivers. The valley lies in the Tavignano catchment, not that of the Tosa, and any bridges or viewpoints along the way should be checked on the ground or with the tourist office in Corte. The route is a day hike rather than a stroll for most visitors, with some uneven ground and short steep sections, so wear sturdy shoes and bring water and food, since there are few facilities beyond the town. Spring and autumn are the most comfortable seasons, since summer heat can be intense and winter weather can close higher stretches.

Corte is the natural base. It was the capital of the independent Corsican state under Pasquale Paoli in the eighteenth century, and the Citadelle de Corte stands on a rock over the town, with a museum and sweeping views. The Corte Old Town is a maze of steep lanes, and the university, founded in 1981, gives the place a lively student atmosphere. The wider Parc Naturel Régional de Corse protects much of the surrounding mountain landscape.

It suits walkers of moderate fitness, nature lovers and travellers who want to see Corsica's interior rather than only its beaches. Note that the Calanques de Piana, listed beside it as a sibling, are on the west coast, a long drive away.