Sartène Market

Sartène is a granite town in the south-west of Corsica, set on a hillside above the valley of the Rizzanese river, and the writer Prosper Mérimée, who visited in the nineteenth century, called it the most Corsican of Corsican towns. Its grey stone houses cluster around a large square and narrow alleys, and the town still has a reputation for pride and tradition. The market at Place Porta, a small square in the old quarter, is the place where visitors can meet the local community and taste the island's produce.

The market is a year-round event, though the schedule varies with the season. In winter it is held on Saturday mornings, and in summer it runs more often, with the main days being Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday and a few producers present on other days, so check the times at the tourist office. The stalls offer a wide choice of what Corsica grows and makes. Charcuterie is a speciality, with air-dried ham called prisutu, cured loin, lonzu, and coppa, as well as fresh and smoked sausages such as figatellu. Cheeses are made from sheep's and goat's milk, among them brocciu, a fresh whey cheese used in cooking and desserts. Other products include olive oil, honey from the maquis, which is protected by an appellation, chestnut-flour bread and cakes, since the chestnut was once the staple of the mountain villages, citrus fruit, jams and wine. The vineyards around Sartène are a wine appellation of their own, producing red and rosé wines from local grapes such as Sciacarello.

Beyond shopping, the market is a social event, where producers and residents meet, talk and eat. The atmosphere is relaxed and genuine, in contrast to the tourist-oriented shops of the coast, and it is good to arrive early, when the stalls are full and the square is lively. Sampling is common, and the vendors are usually happy to explain how a cheese or a ham is made.

Sartène is also known for the Catenacciu, a Good Friday procession in which a penitent dressed in red and dragging a heavy chain walks through the streets at night. The Chapel of Saint-Blaise, the old town and the Musée de Sartène, with its collection of Corsican prehistory, are good additions, and the prehistoric sites of Filitosa and Cauria, with their standing stones, lie a short drive away.

The market suits food lovers, travellers who want local colour and anyone buying picnic supplies. Allow an hour or two. The tourist office can provide current dates.