Loches

Loches, situated in the Indre-et-Loire department of the Centre-Val de Loire region, is a town of significant historical importance, often referred to as the 'Acropolis of the Loire' due to its strategic position on a limestone promontory. The town's history dates back to the Gallo-Roman period, but it flourished during the Middle Ages as a royal stronghold, after the counts of Anjou and then the kings of England held it until Philip Augustus took it in 1205. The Donjon de Loches, a massive keep built in the 11th and 12th centuries, is the town's most iconic landmark. Standing about 36 meters high, it is one of the largest keep towers in Europe and offers panoramic views of the surrounding countryside. The keep served as a royal residence and prison, and its thick walls and narrow windows reflect its defensive purpose. Adjacent to the keep is the Logis Royal, the residence of King Charles VII and his mistress, Agnès Sorel, in the 15th century. This building now houses a museum dedicated to the history of the town and the royal family, and the recumbent tomb of Agnès Sorel can be seen there.

The old town of Loches is a labyrinth of narrow, winding streets lined with half-timbered houses and historic buildings. The Collegiate Church of Saint-Ours, a Romanesque and Gothic structure, is another key attraction, featuring a beautiful portal and interior adorned with religious art, and its crypt is another stop. The town also boasts the Maison de la Reine Blanche, a historic house associated with Blanche of Castile, wife of Louis VIII, and the Tour Guillaume, a part of the fortified complex, along with the Maison des Fées. The Musée du Vieux Loches and the Rue des Écrivains are listed in the lower town. Loches was a favorite residence of French kings, including Henry II and Francis I, who recognized its strategic value and beauty. The town's layout, with its steep streets and elevated position, provides a unique perspective on the Loire Valley and the surrounding countryside. The Martelet, a dungeon, held the Duke of Milan, Ludovico Sforza, until his death in 1508.

Beyond its historical sites, Loches offers a range of activities for visitors. The town is a gateway to the Loire Valley's châteaux, with easy access to nearby attractions such as Amboise, Chinon and Tours. The surrounding countryside is ideal for cycling and hiking, with numerous trails leading through forests and along the Indre River. The town also hosts various cultural events throughout the year, including the Loches Medieval Festival, which celebrates the town's history with reenactments, markets and performances. The local cuisine is a highlight, with dishes reflecting the rich agricultural heritage of the region, including Loire Valley wines and local cheeses, among them the goat cheese of Sainte-Maure. The markets in Loches, held on Wednesday and Saturday, offer fresh produce, artisanal products and local specialties.

Getting to Loches is convenient by regional TER service from Tours to Loches station, a journey of about an hour; some departures run as coaches. For those traveling by car, Loches is reached by the A85 motorway and local roads from Tours. The best time to visit is from May to June and September to October, when the weather is mild and pleasant, ideal for exploring the historic sites and the surrounding countryside. July and August are warm and busy, suitable for those who enjoy summer activities but may encounter larger crowds. Spring and autumn offer milder weather and fewer crowds, making them suitable for sightseeing and walking tours. Winter is cooler and quieter, offering a serene atmosphere for indoor museum visits.