Cathédrale Saint-Pierre de Lisieux

The Cathédrale Saint-Pierre of Lisieux is the town's old cathedral, a large Norman Gothic church that long pre-dates the pilgrimage to Saint Thérèse and is a reminder that Lisieux was a bishopric for more than a thousand years. It rises in the centre of town, on the Place François Mitterrand, a short walk from the river Touques, and it was one of the first great Gothic cathedrals built in Normandy. The cathedral is protected as a monument historique and is free to visit.

Construction began in the second half of the twelfth century, under Bishop Arnoul, a scholar and statesman who advised the Plantagenet kings of England, and it continued through the thirteenth century. The design shows the early Gothic style as it developed in Normandy, with a long nave, pointed arches and tall windows, and details that show the influence of Norman Romanesque tradition, such as the sturdy proportions. The west front has two towers of different dates, and flying buttresses support the walls, giving the exterior a lean, functional look. The interior is calm and spacious, and the pale local stone reflects the light that enters through the clerestory.

A notable addition is the Lady Chapel, built in the fifteenth century by Pierre Cauchon, who was bishop of Lisieux and who earlier, as bishop of Beauvais, presided over the trial of Joan of Arc in Rouen in 1431. He is buried in the chapel he founded. Other chapels hold altars and sculptures from different periods, and the stained glass includes modern work that replaced windows lost in the Second World War. Lisieux suffered heavy bombing in 1944, and although much of the town was destroyed, the cathedral came through and remains one of the oldest structures in the town.

The cathedral has a place in the story of Saint Thérèse. The Martin family, who lived in Lisieux, were parishioners here, and Thérèse knew the church from childhood. Many pilgrims to the Carmel, the basilica and Les Buissonnets, the family home, also call in at the cathedral to see the church she attended. The Basilica of Saint Thérèse, high above the town, is a much larger and later building, and the contrast between the twelfth-century Gothic and the twentieth-century Romano-Byzantine style is one of the interesting features of a visit to Lisieux.

In the centre, a short walk takes you to the Jardin de l'Évêché, the garden of the old bishop's palace, the Parc de la Prairie and the town's museum of art and history. Timber-framed houses survive in the streets near the cathedral, including on the Rue Saint-Pierre. The Pays d'Auge, with its cider orchards and cheeses such as Pont-l'Évêque and Livarot, lies on the town's doorstep. The cathedral suits architecture enthusiasts, pilgrims and visitors looking for a quiet interior, and a visit takes about half an hour. Opening times vary through the week and the year, so check locally before going.