Monolithic Church of Saint-Émilion

The Monolithic Church of Saint-Émilion is an underground church carved out of a single block of limestone beneath the old town, and it is one of the most unusual religious buildings in France. The soft rock of the plateau made it possible for medieval builders to dig a vast space downward and not build upward. Work began in the twelfth century on the site associated with the hermit Émilion, a Breton monk who settled here in the eighth century and gave his name to the town and, indirectly, to its wine. The nave is more than thirty metres long and high enough to feel like a cathedral nave, although the roof is cut from the same rock as the walls.

The church sits below the Place du Marché, and the great bell tower rising above it is part of the same complex. It was added over several centuries on top of the carved rock and now dominates the skyline of the town, so it is visible from far among the vineyards. On the outside, the Gothic portal, richly carved with sculpted figures, gives an idea of the artistic ambition of the monks, even though much of the surface has weathered. Inside, pillars left standing as the stone was removed support the vault, and the walls still show traces of decoration and tombs.

The visit is part of a wider underground circuit. Close to the church are the hermit's grotto and the catacombs, and the Trinity Chapel, a small thirteenth-century space with surviving painted decoration. The monolithic church and the surrounding historic site are part of the UNESCO World Heritage area covering the Jurisdiction of Saint-Émilion, which protects both the town and the wine landscape around it.

The church can only be seen with a guide, and tours are arranged through the Saint-Émilion tourist office, normally on a fixed schedule through the day. Because tours fill up in the busy season, book ahead and check the current timetable, which changes with the season and with weather conditions. Allow an hour or two with the rest of the underground sites. The interior is cool and damp all year, and the steps are steep, so wear sturdy shoes.

It suits anyone interested in medieval architecture, geology and the history of the area, and it pairs well with the Cloître des Cordeliers, the Tour du Roy and a walk among the vineyards of Saint-Émilion.