Vineyards of Saint-Émilion

The vineyards of Saint-Émilion cover the limestone plateau and slopes east of Bordeaux, around the medieval town of the same name, and they are among the most celebrated wine landscapes in the world. In 1999 the area, known as the Jurisdiction of Saint-Émilion, was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list as a cultural landscape, in recognition of the way that vines have been grown here since Roman times and of the beauty of the town and countryside that have grown up around them. The listed area includes the town and several neighbouring villages, and it is a place where wine, architecture and history are inseparable.

The red wines of Saint-Émilion are made mainly from Merlot, with Cabernet Franc and a little Cabernet Sauvignon, and they are known for their soft, rounded character, with notes of red fruit such as wild strawberries and plums, and with age, hints of spice, vanilla and earth. Soils vary from limestone and clay on the plateau and the slopes to sand and gravel on the lower land, and different estates take advantage of these soils in different ways. The famous classification of the wines, first made in the middle of the twentieth century, is revised every ten years or so, and a handful of properties, such as Château Ausone and Château Cheval Blanc, hold the highest rank. Many smaller family estates make excellent wine at much lower prices.

Visitors can explore the vineyards in several ways. Walking and cycling routes run through the vines from the town, past stone farmhouses and small châteaux, and give a close view of the rows of vines, which look especially fine in autumn when the leaves turn gold and red. Many estates offer tours and tastings, often by appointment, and some have underground cellars cut into the limestone. Bike hire and guided tours are available from the town, and the tourist office provides maps and information on which châteaux are open. It is best to book visits in advance, especially for the more famous estates.

In the town itself, the Monolithic Church, carved from the rock, the Tour du Roy and the Cloître des Cordeliers are among the main sights, and the Château Canon and the Château de Figeac are well-known estates in the appellation. The town can be reached by train from Bordeaux in about half an hour, followed by a walk of roughly fifteen minutes up to the centre, although the streets are steep and cobbled. The nearby river town of Libourne gives access to the Dordogne.

Harvest time, in September and October, is exciting but busy. The vineyards suit wine lovers, walkers and cyclists. Remember not to drink and drive, and arrange a driver or taxi for tastings.