Musée Savoisien

The Musée Savoisien in Chambéry is the place to understand Savoy as a region and a state. It stands in the old Franciscan convent next to the cathedral of Saint-François-de-Sales in the centre of the town, and its setting in the former religious buildings, with their cloister and old rooms, gives the visit a calm and historic atmosphere. The museum is dedicated to the history, culture and everyday life of Savoy, a mountain land that was for centuries an independent state and only became French in 1860.

The history behind it is distinctive. The counts of Savoy ruled territories on both sides of the Alps, controlling the passes between France and Italy, and in 1416 the count was raised to the rank of duke. Chambéry was their capital until the court moved to Turin in the sixteenth century, and the dynasty later became the royal family of Italy. The region was ceded to France in 1860, after a vote, and this long and complex history gave Savoy a character of its own, with a mixture of French, Italian and Alpine influences. The museum explains how this land worked, and what people did in it.

The presentation is thematic, rather than strictly chronological. Visitors move through sections on power and territories, populations and movement, resources and food, habitat, belief and dress, and in each section objects, documents, paintings and models bring the theme to life. For instance, the sections on movement and populations show how people travelled over the mountains, how emigrants left the valleys to work elsewhere and how the passes shaped trade, while the section on habitat looks at farmhouses and village life. The section on belief looks at the religious art of the region, from medieval sculpture to Baroque altars, and the section on dress presents the clothing of the valleys.

The displays are modern and clear, and change from time to time so that fragile objects are rested and new items can be shown. A broad staircase and a lift give access to the galleries. The museum is a good first stop before exploring the rest of Chambéry, as it sets the scene for the Château des Ducs de Savoie, which was the seat of power, and the Vieille Ville with its Italian-style houses. The Musée des Beaux-Arts de Chambéry, the Place Saint-Léger, the Théâtre de Chambéry and the Marché de Chambéry are all within walking distance.

Allow an hour or two. It suits history lovers, families and anyone planning to go into the Alps who wants to understand the people who lived there. Check opening times and any ticket arrangements for temporary exhibitions before you go.