Parc Naturel Régional des Volcans d'Auvergne

The Parc Naturel Régional des Volcans d'Auvergne is the largest regional natural park in France. Created in 1977, it covers a broad swathe of the Massif Central across the departments of Puy-de-Dôme and Cantal, from the cone-studded Monts Dômes in the north to the great Cantal massif in the south. Between them lie the Monts Dore, the Cézallier plateau and the granite Artense, all of them shaped by volcanoes that stopped erupting long ago and by glaciers that carved the valleys afterwards. The park also includes the Chaîne des Puys, whose volcanic landscape and fault system is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

For the south, the main landmark is Puy Mary, which rises to about 1,780 metres on the Cantal stratovolcano, among the largest in Europe, now eroded into a star of deep valleys. Cars climb as far as the Pas de Peyrol, one of the highest road passes in the Massif Central, and a stepped path leads up to the summit, where the views stretch across green valleys and pastures in every direction. Puy de Sancy in the Monts Dore, the highest point of the Massif Central, is another classic destination for walkers and in winter for skiers.

The small town of Salers gives the park a human face. Built largely of dark volcanic stone and topped with grey slate roofs, with Renaissance details on its houses, it carries the title of one of the Plus Beaux Villages de France. The Place Tyssandier d'Escous honours the man who helped save and improve the Salers breed of cattle in the nineteenth century, and the town gave its name both to the red-coated cows and to the cheese made from their milk. Near the village edge, the Esplanade de Barrouze opens a wide view toward the Puy Violent and the surrounding highlands.

A few kilometres north, the Maison de la Salers at Le Fau tells the story of the local cattle breed and its farming traditions. It gives useful background for anyone exploring the pastures and the dairy farms of the region. The Château de Salers and the stone-paved lanes of the village can be seen in the same trip.

The park rewards many types of visit: gentle forest walks, serious summit hikes, cycling, cheese tasting and driving tours on high roads. Weather changes fast at altitude, so bring layers, and check the opening times of individual sites before travelling.