Place Saint-Léger

The Place Saint-Léger is one of the oldest and most characteristic squares in Chambéry, and it is known as the original centre of the town, the place around which the old city gathered when Chambéry first grew as the seat of the counts of Savoy. For many years it was a busy but tired space, and in the late 1970s it was redeveloped and pedestrianised, which turned it into one of the most pleasant places in the centre. Today it is lined with terraces, shops and old buildings, and it has a lively atmosphere from morning until late evening.

The square lies at the edge of the old town, and from it a number of streets lead into the historic quarters. Some of the surrounding buildings are old houses with arcades at ground level, in the Savoyard and Piedmontese manner that gives Chambéry its distinctive look, and the colours of the facades range from ochre to soft pink and grey. The pedestrian streets nearby are good for slow walking, and the tall houses give a feeling of enclosure and shelter. In the centre of the square there is room for people to sit, and the cafés spread tables under the sun, so it is one of the best spots in town for a drink and a bit of people-watching.

The history of the city adds depth. Chambéry was the capital of the Duchy of Savoy until the court moved to Turin in the sixteenth century, and the stamp of the dukes can be seen throughout the centre, in the great Château des Ducs de Savoie, which is a short walk uphill, and in the mansions built by noble families. The Vieille Ville, with its covered passages and trompe-l'oeil facades, begins close to the square, and the Marché de Chambéry, the covered market and its surrounding stalls, brings a taste of Savoyard food, with cheeses such as Beaufort and Reblochon.

The cultural sights are close by. The Musée Savoisien tells the story of the region, the Musée des Beaux-Arts de Chambéry holds a fine collection of Italian painting, and the Théâtre de Chambéry hosts performances through the year. A famous fountain topped by four elephants stands in the centre of the old town, commemorating the local benefactor Benoît de Boigne, and is a few minutes away.

The square is free and open at all times. It suits anyone starting a day in the old town, with coffee and a view, and it is most lively on market days and summer evenings. The surrounding streets are quiet early in the morning, which is a good time for photographs.