Pont de Saumur

The main bridge across the Loire at Saumur is a handsome stone structure of the eighteenth century, usually known as the Pont Cessart after its designer, the engineer Louis-Alexandre de Cessart, who worked on many bridges in France in that period. It crosses the river in a series of broad arches, linking the old town and the foot of the castle with the Île d'Offard, a long island in the river, and then continues over a second branch to the far bank. For centuries before, the town relied on older, less durable bridges, many of them of wood, which were damaged by floods and ice, and the stone bridge was a major improvement. Its elegant, regular design reflects the taste of the Age of Enlightenment, which valued reason and order in public works.

The real interest of the bridge for a visitor is its view. Standing on the pavement in the middle of the crossing, you can look up the river toward the white towers of the Château de Saumur on its hill, which rises above the roofs with its pointed turrets, and downstream toward the broad, slow Loire with its sandbanks and willows. In the evening, the light on the water is soft, and the skyline of the old town glows. The Loire here is wide and shallow, with islands and gravel banks that change with the seasons, and in summer there is often a pale, almost Mediterranean light. The river is known as the last wild river in France, because it has few dams, and its levels vary greatly from flood to drought.

The bridge makes a pleasant start for a walk around the town. On the old town side, the quays and the Place du Château lead up to the castle, the Vieux Saumur, with its lanes and cafés, and the Marché de Saumur. On the other side, the island of Offard has a park, a riverside walk and a campsite, and it is a quiet place away from the traffic. The Théâtre de Saumur and the Musée du Cheval are elsewhere in town.

Saumur is famed for its horses. The Cadre Noir, the prestigious riding school, trains riders in the French classical tradition, and its displays are a highlight for horse lovers. The town is also known for its sparkling wines, Saumur-Champigny red wines and the caves cut into the soft limestone of the hillside, among them the Caves de Saumur. Mushrooms are cultivated in other old caves.

Crossing the bridge is free and takes a few minutes. It suits walkers, cyclists on the Loire à Vélo route and photographers, especially at sunrise and sunset. Traffic can be heavy, so use the pavements with care.