What the Calanques de Piana Are
The Calanques de Piana (Calanche di Piana in Corsican) are a stretch of red-orange granite cliffs, ridges and pinnacles on the west coast of Corsica, between the village of Piana and the small port of Porto. Wind and water have carved the rock into towers, arches and hollows that drop steeply to the Gulf of Porto. In 1983 the gulf, including the Calanques, the Scandola nature reserve and the Gulf of Girolata, was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List.
The area is not a national park with entrance gates. Walking is free, and the trails start from lay-bys along the D81 road, which winds through the rock formations.
The Main Trails
Several short and medium walks start from the D81 between Piana and Porto. Marked routes and their starting points are shown on maps available from the tourist office in Piana and on signboards along the road.
- Château Fort trail: one of the best-known walks, starting near a rock known as the Tête de Chien (dog's head). It follows a ridge through pinnacles to a viewpoint over the Gulf of Porto. It is a moderate walk of around one to one and a half hours there and back, with uneven, rocky footing.
- Chemin des Muletiers: an old mule track between Piana and Ota that climbs through the rocks above the road on a stone-paved path. Shorter sections are an easy introduction to the area.
- Capu d'Ortu: a longer, more demanding climb to a summit above the Calanques, rising to roughly 1,300 metres. It requires a full day, good fitness and route-finding care. Only attempt it in settled weather and with enough water.
South-west of Piana, outside the Calanques proper, the walk to the headland of Capu Rossu and its Genoese tower is another popular route, with a steady climb back on the return leg. It is fully exposed to the sun.
Difficulty and Safety
Even the short trails are on rough, rocky ground with loose stones and some steep steps. Walking shoes with good grip are essential; sandals are not suitable. Paths are waymarked, but markings can be faint on bare rock, so keep an eye on them.
Heat is the main risk in summer. There is very little shade and no water on the trails. Start early in the morning, carry at least one and a half to two litres of water per person, and wear a hat. Thunderstorms can develop over the Corsican mountains on summer afternoons, and wet granite becomes slippery. Fire risk is high in summer, and access to some natural areas in Corsica can be restricted on days of high fire danger; check the prefecture's daily notices before setting out.
Driving the D81
The D81 between Piana and Porto is narrow, winding and in places has a rock wall on one side and a drop on the other. Buses and camper vans use it, and passing them often means reversing to a wider spot. Drive slowly, use the horn before blind bends as locals do, and avoid stopping on the road for photos. Parking at trailheads is limited to small lay-bys that fill early in summer.
Seeing the Calanques From the Sea
Boat trips from Porto and other harbours on the gulf sail along the base of the Calanques and usually continue to the Scandola nature reserve, which can only be reached by sea. Seen from the water, the cliffs look much higher and the colours change through the day. Trips are weather dependent and are cancelled in strong winds. Swimming from the rocks is possible in places, but there are few easy access points along this coast.
When to Go
The best walking months are May, June, September and October, when temperatures are moderate and the coast road is less busy. July and August are hot and crowded, and walking is best done at first light. The late-afternoon sun gives the granite its strongest red colour, so a short walk or a drive through the Calanques near sunset is worth planning, keeping in mind that you will drive back on the D81 in fading light.
Where to Base Yourself
Piana and Porto are the nearest villages, with accommodation, restaurants and shops in season. Porto also has a small beach and the departure point for boat trips. The Calanques are within a long day trip from Ajaccio or Calvi, but the drive on winding roads takes time, so staying nearby makes early-morning walks much easier.
